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Alternator connector...OOPS!

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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 09:30 PM
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Default Alternator connector...OOPS!

So my water pump replacement went well today...however...

When I was bolting the alternator back on I noticed that one of the two wires leading into the plastic snap connector had come out.

It appears in the repair process I managed to break the metal connector the wire was crimped to on the inside of the plastic connector.

Is there an easy way to fix this?

Do they sell connectors that I could attach, or even splice my wires to?


Seems to always happen, right? You fix a problem and in the process create a new one...haha
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 09:40 PM
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You can buy a pigtail to splice in at Autozone.
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 09:43 PM
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[After you disconnect the battery, of course...]

Yes, the metal contacts in those plastic bodied connectors DO come out. {They had to put them in there, didn't they? } Usually, the contact pin is retained in the plastic piece with a metal tab that snaps in place when the contact is inserted. You can use a small [jeweler's] screwdriver to press into the 'wire' side so that it can push that metal tab down flat. Then you can push the wire and contact out the end of the connector.

Call around to some of the local car parts stores. Some will carry the contacts and various connectors. Once you see how it is assembled, you can repair it yourself very easily.
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 09:51 PM
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I had this happen on my '77 Trans Am in the '80s. I clipped off the plastic connector, got two female disconnects, crimped those on and made sure they were on the correct terminals.
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ...Roger...
You can buy a pigtail to splice in at Autozone.
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Old Apr 26, 2010 | 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jordan89
That connector (like many of that era) uses the Type 56 female terminal, which are sold at Pep-Boys or NAPA. As said, release the tab on the terminal, push the old one out of the housing, strip the end of the wire, crimp (and I always solder as well) the terminal on the end of the wire, and push it into the housing to engage that locking-tab. Cheaper, easier, and cleaner than the pigtail route.
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