Radiator suggestion - 1978
Anyone have experience with this recently or can recommend a radiator with confidence. I would think aluminum would be the way to go??
Anything to definitely stay away from too; brand, material, etc. Thank you for your suggestions.
Gary
Why did you choose brass? Good deal, Liked the product, Favorable warranty, something else? I was thinking about going aluminum for the lighter weight, faster cooling, & appearance too. I'm not set on anything and I've never needed a new radiator or repair so I really appreciate opinions.
Thanks Gary, I appreciate the reply.
$920 for the radiator/fan combo or $495 for the radiator. The combo is really cool (literally, ha) but not the time for me to spend that kind of money I'm afraid. I'll have to rethink this a bit.
@Duke94 - found one for $350 so far. Better on my wallet however.
Last edited by pauldana; Apr 30, 2010 at 02:17 PM.
I grew up across the alley from a radiator shop and visited often for welding stuff and such. Saw how easy it was to rework them. In fact, they woud simply remove a tank to rod them out and resolder the tank back on, good as new.
Had the radiator in my old Nova recored after it got hit in the front, no problems.
They can even put a thicker core in.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
buying a new replacement seems smart now; maybe go for the aluminum with the dual fans down the road???
Thanks to all of you!
Then I thought about this below and ebay. Well, I just felt that again, somehere, there should an aluminum from a trusted company or good brand at a decent price.
I took a gamble because I don't know much about it but it sounds good and I've had good experiences with Summit before.
Nearly ordered the stock unit when some of the comments from all of you steered me toward a little more looking for the aluminum. Your comments made aluminum sound worth it.
I can always add a fan kit on it later and do away with the regular engine fan and shroud! Real pleased. Thanks to all of you for your comments.
there is very little difference in the cooling efficiency of aluminium and copper/brass, in fact alloy is less efficient but its just the silver solder used on every fin,tube and tank of a copper/brass radiator that holds it back .
both copper/brass and alloy radiators have the ability to cool to 160 in average temps if they are quality units so efficiency is only going to be as good as the thermostat you choose. so for me ill be sticking with what came in the car originally, not what comes in cheap modern cars.
I've had many of traditional radiators in many cars. If this one sucks, then I know. If this one is well liked and does a good job, then I know. For an equal price, call it a test or experiment of equal opportunity. The price won't change my life so why not look in to new things; it is how we learn and hopefully evolve. Just a thought.

Greg
I checked out the price to recore my old rad and it was over $400.00 dollars. I got a bit queasy when a thought of possibly a outlet or inlet pipe not getting installed in the right place or the tanks may be misaligned some what.
After searching this board I made the decision to go with a Dewitt Direct Fit rad and it arrived today. Absolutley a well made product.
With all of us knowing how tight the clearances are in Corvettes I did not want to be pulling that rad out and then to put back in just to attend to something that should have been right in the first place.
There are some areas of a Corvette that you just can't get away from paying close attention. I for one believe it is the cooling system.
Dano,
Sounds like a good one, I looked at Dewitt's aluminum ones today before I ordered mine.
The only real difference in those last two options is in the cost and the enhanced cooling capability of the newer, aluminum higher-capacity radiator. The reliability of the re-cored radiator will be about the same as buying a new one...if the work is done correctly.
Dewitt has some great product information on their site. The thing I liked about Dewitt was they talked to the points of their radiator and the points of other vendors without getting into the old war of 'ours is better because your's is not' routine. That tells me that this vendor is confident in his product without needing to bash others. Professional. Once I saw the rad today it was well worth it.
Dano,
there is very little difference in the cooling efficiency of aluminium and copper/brass, in fact alloy is less efficient but its just the silver solder used on every fin,tube and tank of a copper/brass radiator that holds it back.
The only real difference in those last two options is in the cost and the enhanced cooling capability of the newer, aluminum higher-capacity radiator. The reliability of the re-cored radiator will be about the same as buying a new one...if the work is done correctly.
This car was purchased by me on the briefest of information and checking out. Long story, learned a lot, & got lied to a lot. My mechanic and some work by me, especially part of the interior was a big project over 4.5 months in the shop. We found lots of things that needed repair or replacing and could not have been found even if we spent most of a day really checking it. Many things were grossly neglected with only a few things very new or cared for. Now the car is really fantastic or very close to it; end of next week maybe all done?
So in answer to your inquiry 7T1vette; unsure about what all leaks with the radiator. Looks very bad inside and we can't even see the fluid level after driving less than 100 miles.
To Re-Core it would be about the same amount of money I was told or more to get it done. My mechanic told me there is no one in this town or immediate area that does that work except for a small business that is not trustworthy and often does less than stellar work. Most of that type business he sends 35 miles away to Des Moines Iowa. I'm in Ames, about 50,000 people. The few people my mechanic has dealt with there have done some good and some fair work. That's not good enough for me so to Re-Core does not make sense from a money standpoint, quality of workmanship, and the fact that it can not be done very soon. All things I don't want. That explains fixing I think too.
I don't want to revisit this problem anytime soon. Those items mentioned mostly apply to fixing, not just the Re-Core.
I got a very good price on this radiator as I mentioned and it is the Summit brand. I don't think they would knowingly sell crap quality under their own name but I'll find out soon. If it is all a disaster then I'm out less than $300 or I can exercise the warranty.
Answer it okay 7T1vette? Again, great questions and I think at least some of that was also asked by some others. This turned in to a very interesting thread with varied viewpoints that are founded by people's first hand use, literature, & other experience.
I'm guessing that most of these radiators are fairly good with some being excellent standouts. I'm anxious to try mine, should be here on Wednesday roughly. Might be a few days until it gets put in. It is a direct fit so it should go in easily; should that is. I'll report the experience back in this thread possibly.
Of course not too much will be known until it's really been driven on some really hot days with the new air conditioner blasting for a few hours straight on a trip somewhere.......
Greg
Yes, I want this vehicle to be as maintenance free as can be expected with a Corvette. Most of the rest of the car is new, newer, reconditioned, or inspected and cleaned. I doubt DeWitt is the only good brand so I'm trying Summit's own brand. Money is a bit tight right now but I don't believe that I have sacrificed anything on this "direct fit" application for my vehicle.






















