c3 expansion valve replacement
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Auburndale Florida
c3 expansion valve replacement
1972 Coupe BB with factory air.
Hey guys. I (as in similar threads) are up grading my facotry A/C system to a more modern system.
So far the project is going well....... I have run into a heck of a problem getting the expansion valve nuts broken lose so I can replace the valve with the new one. Space is very limited and even with crows foot flaired wrenches I can't get the fitting to break free. I am afraid of damaging the aluminum tubes to the evaporator. I've hit um with blaster and let it sit.
It appears to me that the bottom tube on the exp. valve has it's own fitting and then it appears there is one nut locked against the top nut.
Any "secrets" to help a shade tree machanic resolve the removal issue?
Hey guys. I (as in similar threads) are up grading my facotry A/C system to a more modern system.
So far the project is going well....... I have run into a heck of a problem getting the expansion valve nuts broken lose so I can replace the valve with the new one. Space is very limited and even with crows foot flaired wrenches I can't get the fitting to break free. I am afraid of damaging the aluminum tubes to the evaporator. I've hit um with blaster and let it sit.
It appears to me that the bottom tube on the exp. valve has it's own fitting and then it appears there is one nut locked against the top nut.
Any "secrets" to help a shade tree machanic resolve the removal issue?
Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 737
Likes: 3
From: Pennington NJ
Well i dont have any application specific help, but if the nuts are stuck, and if you tried some pb blaster on it and they still wont break, try tightening the stuck nut and that may break any seal that rust or crud has formed then back it out.
(i took this from a forum member that posted on a tread about stuck intake manifold fittings and he said to try tightening them and then loosening them instead of just loosening them to break any bond that formed because of garbage on the threads so props to him for this idea!)
Good luck with the project!
Will
(i took this from a forum member that posted on a tread about stuck intake manifold fittings and he said to try tightening them and then loosening them instead of just loosening them to break any bond that formed because of garbage on the threads so props to him for this idea!)
Good luck with the project!
Will
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,093
Likes: 297
From: Midlothian VA
1972 Coupe BB with factory air.
Hey guys. I (as in similar threads) are up grading my facotry A/C system to a more modern system.
So far the project is going well....... I have run into a heck of a problem getting the expansion valve nuts broken lose so I can replace the valve with the new one. Space is very limited and even with crows foot flaired wrenches I can't get the fitting to break free. I am afraid of damaging the aluminum tubes to the evaporator. I've hit um with blaster and let it sit.
It appears to me that the bottom tube on the exp. valve has it's own fitting and then it appears there is one nut locked against the top nut.
Any "secrets" to help a shade tree machanic resolve the removal issue?
Hey guys. I (as in similar threads) are up grading my facotry A/C system to a more modern system.
So far the project is going well....... I have run into a heck of a problem getting the expansion valve nuts broken lose so I can replace the valve with the new one. Space is very limited and even with crows foot flaired wrenches I can't get the fitting to break free. I am afraid of damaging the aluminum tubes to the evaporator. I've hit um with blaster and let it sit.
It appears to me that the bottom tube on the exp. valve has it's own fitting and then it appears there is one nut locked against the top nut.
Any "secrets" to help a shade tree machanic resolve the removal issue?
That's what I do. Much more room to work.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Auburndale Florida
Very sharp. The tightening first did work and she eventually gave up the ghost and came out as she should. Will, I thank you.
Now the fun of removing the POA valve (and I thought the evaporator was a PITA!)
Ken
Now the fun of removing the POA valve (and I thought the evaporator was a PITA!)
Ken
Well i dont have any application specific help, but if the nuts are stuck, and if you tried some pb blaster on it and they still wont break, try tightening the stuck nut and that may break any seal that rust or crud has formed then back it out.
(i took this from a forum member that posted on a tread about stuck intake manifold fittings and he said to try tightening them and then loosening them instead of just loosening them to break any bond that formed because of garbage on the threads so props to him for this idea!)
Good luck with the project!
Will
(i took this from a forum member that posted on a tread about stuck intake manifold fittings and he said to try tightening them and then loosening them instead of just loosening them to break any bond that formed because of garbage on the threads so props to him for this idea!)
Good luck with the project!
Will
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Auburndale Florida
Pro
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 737
Likes: 3
From: Pennington NJ
Will
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Below the POA valve is a piece of sheet metal which can be removed and the POA valve will drop straight down, otherwise there isn't enough clearance to get it out and the new one in without scraping the paint off the engine compartment and/or damaging something.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Auburndale Florida
Have, by going through the shark grill, been able to finish removing the old POA and evaporator. Gave me a chance to clean up the area too. Have since reinstalled the new POA and expansion and reconnected the hoses. Tomorrow the S6 goes in and soon after she'll be charged.
I did flush the whole system several times and OMG the crap that was in there.
I still wonder if the cooling will improve? I know their will be less drag on the motor but I have many more horses then I need now so that's not the motivation. I wanna be cool and comfy.
I did flush the whole system several times and OMG the crap that was in there.
I still wonder if the cooling will improve? I know their will be less drag on the motor but I have many more horses then I need now so that's not the motivation. I wanna be cool and comfy.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Auburndale Florida
Have, by going through the shark grill, been able to finish removing the old POA and evaporator. Gave me a chance to clean up the area too. Have since reinstalled the new POA and expansion and reconnected the hoses. Tomorrow the S6 goes in and soon after she'll be charged.
I did flush the whole system several times and OMG the crap that was in there.
I still wonder if the cooling will improve? I know their will be less drag on the motor but I have many more horses then I need now so that's not the motivation. I wanna be cool and comfy.
Also found that I need to replace a section of the wiring harness from the A/C relay all the way to the compressor. At some time prior to my ownership the relay connectors all melted and I'm not even sure the connectors are on the correct posts (I've never had a high speed on my A/C fan even with parts replacements. Any ideas?
Thanks guys,
Ken
I did flush the whole system several times and OMG the crap that was in there.
I still wonder if the cooling will improve? I know their will be less drag on the motor but I have many more horses then I need now so that's not the motivation. I wanna be cool and comfy.
Also found that I need to replace a section of the wiring harness from the A/C relay all the way to the compressor. At some time prior to my ownership the relay connectors all melted and I'm not even sure the connectors are on the correct posts (I've never had a high speed on my A/C fan even with parts replacements. Any ideas?
Thanks guys,
Ken
Pro
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 629
Likes: 6
From: columbus ms
when you reinstall everything make sure you get some ester oil and lube the orings so they don't pinch when reinstalling them and add a little to the threads. so the next guy will not have to go thru what you did to get the nut loose. ester is a/c oil. they make r-12 and 134 oil.
