Boby mount shims?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 704
Likes: 10
From: Blairsville Ga
Boby mount shims?
I have installed 10 shims on each side on the #4 body mounts and still a big gap at the top of the doors. Is this normal? How many shims do you have at #4? I'm thinking about reducing them down a little and trying to shim #1 up to help reduce the gap. I figured if I can spit the difference. Since I have no front end on the car now, I can go ahead and get the back of the doors adjusted and worry about the front later. Any advice on how to resolve this would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 704
Likes: 10
From: Blairsville Ga
As of now, no torque, the bolts are just snug to get every thing lined up. they are new poly mounts from ecklers. ALso, ecklers suggest that I torq them down with 30 lbs. I did it as a trial just to see how it looked an man it made the gap huge. Thanks for the post
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
10 shims seems to be way too many and that gap is still like the Grand Canyon. Normally you would start with 2 shims and add maybe 1 or 2 more at most. Something is very wrong with that installation. You might want to PM forum member RoadRaceVette and ask his opinion. He does fantastic body work on Vettes.
Rick B.
Rick B.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 330
Likes: 44
From: Cincinnati Ohio
It sounds like something is raising up #3 mount. I would check to make certain that the neck of the rubber mount is fully into the hole in the body channel. Especially since you are using Poly, the rubber mounts are a snug fit, the neck needs to be fully into the hole. Any chance it is upside down? There normally is a steel sleeve inside the rubber mount and if the neck of the rubber mount is not fully up into the mounting hole in the body it can hold the body up. 10 shims sounds like about the same length as the neck on the rubber mount.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,202
Likes: 4,287
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi S,
Has THIS body been on THIS frame before?
Has there been work done to the frame or body or mounts?
Since there's no front clip to check the front gap with is it possible the hinges need to be moved up to tip the door?
Do both doors have the gap problem?
Regards,
Alan
Has THIS body been on THIS frame before?
Has there been work done to the frame or body or mounts?
Since there's no front clip to check the front gap with is it possible the hinges need to be moved up to tip the door?
Do both doors have the gap problem?
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; May 9, 2010 at 04:42 PM.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 704
Likes: 10
From: Blairsville Ga
Hey Alan, this is the original body and frame for the car. It was fine until I messed with it. I'm in the process of doing a full body resto on the car. The mounts are new and are poly from Ecklers. As of now I have no front on the car, I was kinda hoping to get the back lined up first and then work with the front while mounting the fenders. This maybe backwards way of doing it. And yes both doors have the problems. When I removed the doors and body I did a big no no. I didn't keep count of the shims used on the doors and body. Thanks
Racer
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 330
Likes: 44
From: Cincinnati Ohio
You mentioned doing front later. Do you have the new poly bushings installed on 1 and 2 mounts? There has to be a reason that it all has changed! I have had one get too far forward in relationship to the frame and the back of the rocker channel got hung up on the frame rather than going behind it. What condition are the holes is the body for the bushings? If #2 is rusted out it would drop down more causing the rear to be up.
You can adjust doors front to back and up and down through the hinge mounts. Front to back on the connection to the hinge pillar and up and down on the hinge to door connection. Are your gaps good at the bottom both front and back? What is the upper gap on the front of the door in comparison to the bottom?
Generally coupes are easier than convertibles since the T-tops keep the body together.
Hang in there you will find it!
You can adjust doors front to back and up and down through the hinge mounts. Front to back on the connection to the hinge pillar and up and down on the hinge to door connection. Are your gaps good at the bottom both front and back? What is the upper gap on the front of the door in comparison to the bottom?
Generally coupes are easier than convertibles since the T-tops keep the body together.
Hang in there you will find it!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 704
Likes: 10
From: Blairsville Ga
All mounts are in good shape and no rust in them. The #3 mounts had a little surface rust but that was cleaned out. I also have new poly mounts on all of them. I'm going to remove the #4 mounts and start by adjusting the doors and see how close I can get then start shimming. I neve should have taken the doors off. Thanks for the post.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 7
From: Beringen
The shims in the rear don't solve that problem. In fact, the shims do nothing for door alignment. As you probably know, the rear end and front clip are very firmly attached to the birdcage in those locations. Any correction needs to come from the door itself.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 34
From: Working on the car NY
10 shims are wayy too many. I had 4 at #4 and 2 at #8. I thought I read somewhere that 4 was the maximum they used. I have more of a gap on the P/S top than I want but the car was always (since '73 anyway) like that. My next step is adjusting the door.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,609
Likes: 12
From: Massapequa Park NY
On a coupe. On a convertible they change that gap considerably. "10 shims are way too many. I had 4 at #4 and 2 at #8. I thought I read somewhere that 4 was the maximum they used."
I remember that as well. Did you note how many shims were in each location when you took it apart? If so I'd start there. Then adjust the door to get the rear gap as even as you can while also keeping parallel to the rocker moldings.
Then play with the shims & adjust the doors until you're satisfied. You can adjust the doors at both the birdcage & inside the door. Also make sure the hinges are not worn.
Is the nose on the car?
Jim
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 704
Likes: 10
From: Blairsville Ga
I've always assumed that the shims would help on he gaps. I've been working on the doors and making some progress, but man what a PITA. Any clues on making it easier. I'm assuming the hinge bolts inside the door control up and down and the ones inside the car controll nose to tail, right?
the nose is not on the car. I have a one piece tilt front end so adjusting it will be a chore but I should be able to match it with the front with a little work.
I did not keep track of how many shims were used (big mistake) but I did switch to poly. Right now I have know shims and kinda starting over. I'm going to focus on the doors first and then worry about the shims..
the nose is not on the car. I have a one piece tilt front end so adjusting it will be a chore but I should be able to match it with the front with a little work.
I did not keep track of how many shims were used (big mistake) but I did switch to poly. Right now I have know shims and kinda starting over. I'm going to focus on the doors first and then worry about the shims..
Last edited by shamby; May 10, 2010 at 05:24 PM.
