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the power windows operate slowly in my '76. i noticed that the ammeter is on the low side. so after revving the engine a bit, the ammeter goes up and the windows work a little better. any ideas anyone? thanks.
1. Have you pulled the window tracks and cleaned the old and tired/dried out grease? My windows were getting a bit "tired" and cleaning and regreasing the tracks made a big difference.
Window tracks are probably caked up with 30+ years of crud. When you rev the engine, you get a little more juice to the window motors.
I had this same issue about 5 years ago. My solution was to pull the windows and tracks out of the doors, clean everything, replace the rollers, and relube. Took me an afternoon but well worth it. Windows are nice and speedy now.
I have noticed that I too have to rev up my engine to get the altinator to "kick-in"...I think there's a wiring trick to get it to charge even at low RPM's....?????
I have noticed that I too have to rev up my engine to get the altinator to "kick-in"...I think there's a wiring trick to get it to charge even at low RPM's....?????
Never heard of a wiring trick,I always thought it was more regulator related. I'm listening as well.
Never heard of a wiring trick,I always thought it was more regulator related. I'm listening as well.
I thought there was something on the altinator that it doesnt start charging until after a certine RPM....and on my 74', I get very little charge until I rev up the motor - then the amps jump way up to a good level and stay there...it has always bugged me.....!!!
I thought there was something on the altinator that it doesnt start charging until after a certine RPM....and on my 74', I get very little charge until I rev up the motor - then the amps jump way up to a good level and stay there...it has always bugged me.....!!!
I've noticed over the years from working on these cars that some alternators charge very little at a low idle and if you increase the rpms very slowly you can watch by looking at a gauge or just watching the interior lights a definite kickup in power. I used to rebuild original alternators and always used quality parts and after the rebuild don't recall this kickup happening,so I sorta figured it was a cheap reg or a combination of parts or blown diodes causing it.
Hopefully someone that really understands how alternators work will chime in and enlighten us.
I have noticed that I too have to rev up my engine to get the altinator to "kick-in"...I think there's a wiring trick to get it to charge even at low RPM's....?????
so it just not my car.
i don't think there is a wiring trick. changing the pulley size on the alt. may affect the charging at low rmp. a small one??
what are you guys using to lube the tracks with??? white lithium grease?
thanks,
Sully
I use a dry moly spray from John Deere but I wonder from the design if ANY lube is actually needed on the tracks themselves. Nylon rollers in a steel track, the rollers are not sliding in the tracks.
Your P/W switches are 'carboned up' so the connection is no longer clean. Remove them, disassemble them, clean off the carbon/corrosion, put dielectric grease on the contacts to keep them from arcing, reassemble and reinstall.
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Originally Posted by SteveG75
Window tracks are probably caked up with 30+ years of crud. When you rev the engine, you get a little more juice to the window motors.
I had this same issue about 5 years ago. My solution was to pull the windows and tracks out of the doors, clean everything, replace the rollers, and relube. Took me an afternoon but well worth it. Windows are nice and speedy now.
However, I would try to clean everything in place (tracks) before removing them- since it is a royal PITA to get the tracks back where they belong and get ur windows adjusted back. Just my opinion.
The last time I did this , I cleaned the tracks in place- forgot what i used but it was a spray- ,then sprayed 'em with white lithium grease. They were like new again- no window tracks to readjust....
Pay particular attention to the thing circled in yellow. The teeth wear out. So when its going up/down, its actually skipping through teeth. Its not a lack of power, or gunked up works or tracks. It's probably the regulator gear. Did the drivers side and it moves like a star ship door on "Star Trek" now. Gonna do the passenger side next.
FYI, the slowness is a sign of things to come. Eventually the teeth wear completely down to the point that the window will no longer operate properly.