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Rear end is gonna get upgraded, before or after the first run on DR's I don't know yet I haven't made my mind up
If you wait until after the fist trip to the track to upgrade it, PLEASE take somebody with a video camera to the track with you.
In the event that the breakage is spectacular, I am sure that everyone would like to see the footage.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I'm not going to do a Space Shuttle launch, I just want to get some traction off the line and not be spinning the tires all the way down the track, that is no fun and a waste of time and money,
I'm just looking for sub 2 sec 60ft and be able to get on it after that without fishtailing down the track
Did that rear end mess happen recently, I know you've been to the track
Having run M/T ET Street Drag radials, M/T ET Streets, Hoosier Quick Times, and BFG G-Force DR's. All have performed very well, except the BFG's.
The M/t Dr's were designed to be run with Auto Trans, though they work quite well on a stick car. What's nice about the M/T DR's are no tubes, or rim screws needed.
I would highly recomend the 275/60/15's over the 295's. The 12" section width and the 10.9" tread width on a 8" rim will cause the tire to round out at the edges effectively eliminating any extra contact patch gained by the larger 295's. Another bonus is the 275's are a couple pounds lighter per tire.
I'm currantly running 275/50/15's on the back of my 555" vette and like others have stated, they hook well. The Pro-Street Association that I run with, All run 540" to 632" motors. Most are running 8.70's on motor. Others are running 8.0's with 632" and 3 kits (nitrous) with leaf springs and Cal-Tracs.
Which ever way you go, I'm sure you'll be happy with the Mickeys.
About 2 years ago. 1.8 60' at the time. Standard Richmond differential and 4.11 gears. Hit the gas at the line and broke. Didnt even move.
But in any event, the DRs should stop you from fishtailing. That could get dangerous
Originally Posted by MotorHead
I'm not going to do a Space Shuttle launch, I just want to get some traction off the line and not be spinning the tires all the way down the track, that is no fun and a waste of time and money,
I'm just looking for sub 2 sec 60ft and be able to get on it after that without fishtailing down the track
Did that rear end mess happen recently, I know you've been to the track
BFG recommends 8 to 10 inch wheel width for their 275/60/15 DRs.
The 8 min. actually causes crowning and decreases the effective center contact patch. To look at it another way. 10 inches = 254 mm So 275 is even wider. I run 335 on 12 inch and I sometimes wish that i would have had 13 inch wide made
Mickey Thompson gives a spec for wheel width from 7.5" to 9.5" for their 275/60/15 tire. Section width is 11.0" and tread width is 9.5" This is measured with a 8" wheel.
Air pressure recomended by M/T is 18 to 22 lb's. Most of the guys that I know run 15 to 19lb pressure cold. I run 16lb's cold.
Any negative camber more than .5 deg. will cause gumming and noticable wear to the inside of the tire over its short, but sticky life.
...or run the 255/60/15 like Alan stated. Looks like it fits his 8" wheel very well. You'l want to keep the tires in the fender well. That R2 compound gets really soft and gummie as the tire wears. Likes to pick up every bit of gravel or whatever it rolls over.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by gkull
The problem is 275 on an 8 inch rim. I'd shop around for some cheap 15X10 aluminum
I'm looking at the 295, MT says 8 in. rim will work, they have been doing this since Don Garlits was in diapers or before that so I would trust what they say, the don't want a tire blowing up on a rim that they say is safe to run. Negligence is a criminal offense
I'm looking at the 295, MT says 8 in. rim will work, they have been doing this since Don Garlits was in diapers or before that so I would trust what they say, the don't want a tire blowing up on a rim that they say is safe to run. Negligence is a criminal offense
But I am looking at rims also
The 295 "will" work on an 8" wheel but the contact patch will suffer....not to mention the sidewalls will be "rolled" to the lip of the wheel....Not a good profile. For an 8" stick with the 275.....people run 9s with em...... I went 255 so it would clear my e-brake cable bracket on the trailing arms AND I didn't want to kill my 3.08 gear any worse with a taller tire....255s are 27" tall....
You will like how the ET Street radials work.....I think as long as you don't straight up dump the clutch, your rear will live a little while......I probably wouldn't full on powershift it on those tires though....that can kill a rear also....Being able to use some first gear actually makes the car fun to drive on the street also.....
I'm going to try thr new Nitto NT05R's in 285/40X18. There is a local guy that has a set on a nitrous assisted Fox body that has been 8.0's with them and says the new nittos are very comparable with the M/T drag radials. he says the 60 ft. numbers were off just a little but picked up in the 330' and in the 1/8th. He said they dont like to be shocked as hard as the M/T on the line, but I'll never shock them as hard as he does as he leaves on a 150 shot then progressively brings in more juice to the full 400 shot in the first 3.5 seconds. I've made a few engine upgrades along with a new Extreme Automatics 200-4R with all billet internals with constant pressure manual valve body and a new differential from Trackdogg2. Also upgraded to big half shafts with 1350 u-joints. I'm shooting for some very low 11's this year. Hopefully I'll get close.