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I agree with the "you really need to check the bottom end" if you are building the top end and adding extra horses... I have seen on more than one occasion where 2 3 even 4 months later after a top build something on the bottom gives up ie rod bearings... I hope its not I dont wish bad on anyone.. but if it turns out to be then you have an excuse to build the bottom up to match the top//
Pull each plug wire and the one that quiets it down is your cylinder
If it was a flexplate it would make a different sound when you put it in gear. Oil pressure is a dead give away after it warms up. If it reads 10psi or lower at idle or the noise is very quiet when the engine is cold....that's a bearing!!!
When you adjusted the lifters, how did you adjust the preload?
Well............I asked you this because I was mislead once by someone telling me to tighten them 1/4 turn after zero lash which is no good for a Hydraulic Roller. 3/4 to 1 turn is what's recommended. Without sufficient pressure on the lobe from the roller, it gets airborn at high rpms and slams into the camshaft. After awhile it chews up the cam and starts making a knocking sound very similar to a rod bearing. Pulling off plug wires doesn't do any good, you can't hear it at idle.
If you pull the intake and the lifters you can look down the lifter bore and see the cam lobes.
it always had good oil pressure! didn't look to much different after the knock! but don't really remember it was not enough of a difference to alarm me
Hey Im up in Ramsey, so not too far away. Hope I can see you car around.
I have been going to Cars and Cafe in Chanhassen this year (first Sat of every month) and I usually try to get over to Mystic Lake for the big show down there every summer.
If you go for a 383 email me as you need to change a bunch of other parts other than just the engine. I can fill you in as I just blew minu up 2 weeks ago and am still spending.
Hey Im up in Ramsey, so not too far away. Hope I can see you car around.
I have been going to Cars and Cafe in Chanhassen this year (first Sat of every month) and I usually try to get over to Mystic Lake for the big show down there every summer.
i go to anoka just about every Saturday for their car show! the old man has a red 66 convertible we usually park together
350 L98 crank with chewed up journal
L98 to 383
you have a roller cam so cam-to-rod clearance probably Not an issue.
certainly Not the best ... but the Cheapest 383 for you is probably a budget cast iron 383 crank with a set of sbc400 rods ... mated to your L98 pistons.
otherwise ... buy crank & 6" rods & pistons.
whichever 383 path you choose, best to have local shop balance rotating assembly.
drop parts off at the machine shop today. the block is getting cleaned magnafluxed,cylinders de-glazed new cam bearings. going to turn the crank and resize the one rod new bearings and rings and then i get to put it all back together!
While running - pull off one spark plug wire at a time - if the knocking stops on a specific cylinder - you found your problem - Rod bearing.
This is a good way of finding which cyl rod it is.......and if she does not stop knocking on one of the cyl I would look else where like flex plate ect.......like others have said.
Most times it a piston rod on an upper rebuild/cam change.........most hp is in the heads /cam and they will find the weak link in the system.
it's running pretty good. been driving it easy got about 500 miles on her now but i have and oil leak not a major one but a annoying one. i would like to get up to b.i.r. sometime this summer and see what she will do?