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Old May 16, 2010 | 05:35 PM
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after spending all winter working on the vette rebuilding the rear suspension new heads on motor cam and intake the motor just developed a knock
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Old May 16, 2010 | 05:43 PM
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What have you done to determine what the knock is ?
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Old May 16, 2010 | 05:48 PM
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drive you change cam bearings, possible lifter not pumped up (hydraulic lifters?) how long engine running before knock started? oil in engine? more info!
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Old May 16, 2010 | 06:21 PM
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the motor has been running for a few weeks and running real strong . but i think i hurt the bottom end or possible cam bearing ?
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Old May 16, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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cam, maybe, not sure without hearing it but I am think rod bearing.. did you do any bottom end rebuilding? or are the rod bearings original?
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Old May 16, 2010 | 09:01 PM
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the lower end was not touched. the motor has been running for nearly three years don't know history of the motor. she always ran strong just not strong enough so this winter put dart heads, gm hot cam(1990 oem roller block) eddy rpm intake. that really woke her up but playing with her today must of over revved it? it was a L98 motor out of a z28. dont hear anything distinct at idle but somethings knocking when revved!
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Old May 16, 2010 | 09:54 PM
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you over reved it? now that really leads me to a spun rod bearing.. either way you will have to pull motor out and inspect.. at least thats where I would start
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Old May 16, 2010 | 10:46 PM
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Knock in head, upper end, or does it sound more like its coming from the lower block?

What kind of oil did you use for cam break in?
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Old May 16, 2010 | 10:57 PM
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sounds lower to me? wrist pin or rod bearing maybe wont know untill i pull it tommorow. still has good oil pressure? mn-brent it"s a roller cam so no cam break in.
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Old May 16, 2010 | 11:02 PM
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Lots of other things to check before condemning the motor. If you have an auto, check the torque converter bolts,bad mechanical fuel pump can knock, pull the valve covers and see if you can see anything there.
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Old May 16, 2010 | 11:10 PM
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torque converter bolts tight. valve covers off everything looks normal. i took the belt off to elimanate the water pump. fuel pump??? i'll look in to that before i pull it tommorow but it sounds more terminal than that.
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Old May 16, 2010 | 11:19 PM
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I usually start the engine and then shut it off to get fuel in the carb,then I remove the 2 bolts holding the pump , leave lines attached,pull the pump out a little and drop the rod and then restart and listen.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 08:56 AM
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quick easy check ........pull the oil filter and pour thru a paint strainer / filter , look for shavings or babbit material. or use a white towel to strain thru...put a extendable magnet into the filter ....look for any metal particles
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:08 AM
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i would have to hear it to even make any assumptions rather than though guessing.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:42 AM
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When you adjusted the lifters, how did you adjust the preload?
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Old May 17, 2010 | 09:54 AM
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While running - pull off one spark plug wire at a time - if the knocking stops on a specific cylinder - you found your problem - Rod bearing.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 10:00 AM
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Did you even check the condition of the rod bearings before you put new heads, etc. on the car? If the motor had lots of miles on it, the added HP just help you wear it out really quickly. You need to pull the idler arm off the frame and drop the oil pan...then see how some of the rod bearings look.
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Old May 17, 2010 | 10:05 AM
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Stethoscope
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Old May 17, 2010 | 11:27 AM
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I have had a few cracked flex plates sound just like a rod knock!
It was always a nice suprize!
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Old May 17, 2010 | 11:55 AM
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I too have had a cracked flexplate sound like and engine knock.
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