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This is what I did. I went to autozone and bought a tube of Lucas Red grease for my grease gun. I use it on the bearings and ball joints also.
The steering box adjustment nut cover has three 9/16th nuts. You only need to remove two. One towards the fire wall and the lower fender one. I dumped solvent in and filled up the steering box. It will come out the input and output shafts so kind of wrap it with rags. I let it sit over night. Carb cleaner or something similar would work also. I have a air nozzle for my air compressor. I put a rag over the second lower bolt hole and blew everything out. Kind of like blowing your nose and getting all the .... out! Whether it was nessesary or not thats debatable
Anyway you can buy a grease needle that screws onto the grease gun instead of the normal Zerk fitting end. I just pumped away untill I had grease coming out both bolt holes. I replaced the two 9/16th bolts and it's all happy now for another 5-10 years.
YA mean you refilled the steering box with ball joint Lucas red grease ?
When letting carb cleaner overnight in the box, is there any plastic pieces or seals in there that would be destroyed by the strong chemical reaction ?
Your answer seems very good but will wait for a responce...
YA mean you refilled the steering box with ball joint Lucas red grease ?
When letting carb cleaner overnight in the box, is there any plastic pieces or seals in there that would be destroyed by the strong chemical reaction ?
Your answer seems very good but will wait for a responce...
S80
At work (race shop) I clean everything in the solvent tank. It doesn't hurt rubber or plastic. Lucas red grease is good stuff.
Just buy some good quality synthetic gear grease. I agree with removing the two 'outboard' bolts on the box. But, then I would suggest that you stick something (piece of wire, small dowel, whatever) in the box to see how much grease it has in it and what condition it is in. If the grease looks OK but is low, just add some. If it is caked up, you probably want to put some light oil in it to dissolve the caked up stuff; then blow it out and replace with the synthetic stuff. I'm not too sure about using a solvent in the box. It was made 40 years ago and the seal may not be Vyton [or other synthetic rubber that is resistant to solvents].
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by ssenay72
zips sells steering box lube, they also have a zerk fitting you can use in place of one of the bolts, makes it easier in the future.
There was a good thread a while back on this. I ended up mixing ordinary green bearing grease with 30wt oil to get a goop not as thick as grease but not as runny as oil. Paul74 started it, do a search, it was a year or 3 ago.
you put straight 90wt in and when it gets warm it is going to be a leaking mess, it is best to check inside with a piece of wire and see if it is caked up,if it is a little then add a little 90wt then use a grease fitting and fill with grease into the 2 holes. 90wt is too thin and will leak out
Jim, I have a question, why is the aluminum selector cover underside where it mates to the cast iron gear box, not a machined surface? Was this for gear box venting? On occasion I have seen lube leaking out from this area, if it were machined flat, the seal would greatly improve in this area but, I take it that GM had a reason for leaving this surface so rough.
The steering box needs 70wt or 90wt gear oil...same thing that goes into the differential except it doesn't need the posi-trac additive.
I made that same mistake - and it is a mistake - but it didn't seem to hurt anything. My 68 service manual has a diagram that clearly shows you are supposed to use chassis grease in the steering box.
Maybe they changed things by 1980, but in 68 the said, "if required, add EP Chassis Lubricant which meets GM Specification GM 6031 M"
I'll say it again. Use synthetic grease. Synthetic does not 'melt' with higher temps. In fact, that's one of the benefits of synthetics; they tolerate high temps better than organic products.
zips sells steering box lube, they also have a zerk fitting you can use in place of one of the bolts, makes it easier in the future.
I bought one of those zerk fittings from Paragon. Filled that sucker full of grease, which still kept oozing out of both ends. Finally took it out of the car and removed the top cover to inspect before sending away for rebuild and reseal. Found out I severely over-greased it. Promised my vette mentor that I would throw that fitting away, or donate it to a good cause.