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Do the bushing cups that go in the rear of the trailing arms have to be flared? If so, how is that done? I am installing a new kit and noticed the old ones were flared in place.
Thanks!!!!!!!
Last edited by Fishndude; May 26, 2010 at 10:27 AM.
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Me thinks the flaring occurs with age and spring tension. Just installed a new glass spring on my 80, i noticed the same thing. I;ll let gravity do its job.
Me thinks the flaring occurs with age and spring tension. Just installed a new glass spring on my 80, i noticed the same thing. I;ll let gravity do its job.
Thanks, that sounds good to me becasue I dont have any flaring tools anyways
You can peen them over with a ball peen hammer head. You can use another hammer and hit the back side of ball peen hammer. It will flare out the top hat of the cup. Once the it rolls out you can tap it flat.
You can peen them over with a ball peen hammer head. You can use another hammer and hit the back side of ball peen hammer. It will flare out the top hat of the cup. Once the it rolls out you can tap it flat.
Is it recommended or necessary that they be flared? I have no problem doing it but only if its needed/recommended...
Here's my flaring 'tool'....
The tapered socket is an old oil pressure sending unit socket. Maybe you have something similar.
Crank the nut/bolt tight and it does a really clean job.
Hi fd,
If the cup didn't need to be fixed in place you can bet Chevrolet wouldn't have done it. It was an extra step that COST something to perform so they'd have stopped it if they could have.
With kaps tool maybe a five minute job?
Regards,
Alan
Your new kit should have the hardware. Already flared. Did this job on my 78 2 years ago. Make sure your car is on stands tires off. You will have to use a block of wood and jack to raise the spring to release tension of the spring. You want to have the jack and wood just to the inside of bushing and bolt. Make sure you don't lift the body. Just release the tension is all.
Gary
Your new kit should have the hardware. Already flared. Did this job on my 78 2 years ago. Make sure your car is on stands tires off. You will have to use a block of wood and jack to raise the spring to release tension of the spring. You want to have the jack and wood just to the inside of bushing and bolt. Make sure you don't lift the body. Just release the tension is all.
Gary
How can they already be flared when the flaring is done after you install them in the trailing arm? The flare actually holds them into the trailing arm...
When I removed mine, one was flared and the other wasnt, hence the reason for my original question..
How can they already be flared when the flaring is done after you install them in the trailing arm? The flare actually holds them into the trailing arm...
When I removed mine, one was flared and the other wasnt, hence the reason for my original question..
I am baffled by this thread as said previously. There is no "flaring". Just put them in place and add bushings/washers. Then tighten up.
Maybe 'flared' isn't the right word.
The FACTORY 'crimped' them onto the spring and to the trailing arm by rolling the inner edges over.
For some of us, it's just a matter of copying the factory way.
Hi fd,
If the cup didn't need to be fixed in place you can bet Chevrolet wouldn't have done it. It was an extra step that COST something to perform so they'd have stopped it if they could have.
With kaps tool maybe a five minute job?
Regards,
Alan
Never was a more true point made. The factory will do whatever they can to cut costs, ten cents here and twenty cents there adds up to some real money when you're selling cars by the thousands. I made a tool on the lathe very similar to kaps' tool and we affix a bushing cup to every trailing arm we sell. -Jeff