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I recently had a ZZ4 engine in my '82. I checked the timing this morning and to my surprise the timing was set at zero degrees @ 650rpm. Going back to the site where I bought the engine:
I can check the timing at 4000 tomorrow, family BBQ today. Zero degrees just sounds wrong to me unless there is something I do not know about this distributer. Also the engine does not seem to come alive until 1800 rpm or higher. Perhaps this is the reason why.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by AT-82Collectors
I recently had a ZZ4 engine in my '82. I checked the timing this morning and to my surprise the timing was set at zero degrees @ 650rpm. I found this in the specs:
Mechanical Vacuum
1100 RPM-0.0 3.00 (in.hg.) 0.0 Timing Should be Set @ 32 Total @ 4000 RPM
1600 RPM-12.0 7.50 9in.hg.) 20.0 With Vacuum Advance Disconected.Vacuum
2400 RPM-16.0
Am I reading this correctly that the base timing should be set at 0 degrees?
Thanks,
Andy
No, the timing should not be set at 0 degrees. They are telling you that the mechanical advance at any rpm below 1100 is 0 degrees, and that your total advance should be 32. Set your total advance to 32 and let your initial timing fall where it may - they are not giving you an initial timing spec because it is irrelevant once total timing is set to 32. Small block engines with good heads will typically run at 32 total. Small blocks with stock iron heads tend to run best at 36, and big-bore engines like timing as much as 40 total, depending on head design. The other numbers they've given you are curve versus rpm numbers, which are also irrelevant once you set your total to 32.
Just as a follow up, setting the timing at 32 degrees @ 4000 rpm has the engine doing much better that when it was installed with no rattles or knocks. I think the shop assumed zero degrees when they read the documentation I supplied with the engine.
The base timing turned out to be 11 degrees BTDC at 650 rpm after setting it correctly in case someone else runs into this.