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Not very hard really. Just put a jack under the oil pan with a 2 X 4 to distribute the weight. Raise the jack until it's tight but not lifting the motor at all. Loosen the three mount to engine bolts on eack side and remove the nuts from the long engine mount to frame bolts. Now raise the jack until the load is off at least one of the mounts. You should now be able to remove the frame bolt. Once this is off, replace that mount and put the new one on. Only partially tighten the mount to engine bolts. Replace the long bolt on that side and replace the nut loosly. Now raise the jack a little more to get the other side. Once that side is done, lower the jack and tighten up both sides. Don't forget the long bolt nuts too.
This will be complicated slightly if your transmission mount is shot. Might be easier to replace that one first. Probably not a bad idea to loosen the transmission mount bolts before starting but I've done it without.
From time to time I've had difficulty aligning the long bolts. I've had good success using a pry bar to move the motor around a little and the long bolts have a tapered threaded section too so you only really need to get them started. Use a ratchet to drive them in the rest of the way. Raising and lowering the jack in tiny increments will help with the alignment too.
Be careful as you'll be working under the engine with the car jacked up. Leave the rear wheels on the ground and chock them.
Last edited by CA-Legal-Vette; May 31, 2010 at 06:57 PM.
From: Where it's always hot as Hell-South Louisiana.
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
1. pay someone if it means that much to you. should be no more than 2 hours labor at a shop.
or
2. use a motor puller or similiar jack from the top side to raise the motor instead of jacking it UP from under the oil pan.make damn sure the parking break is on, rear wheels chocked and give the car a good push with you hands to make sure its gonna hold b4 u get under it.(using jack stands under the front method)..
I always use jack stands, but i leave the jack under the frame as well with only 10% load on it as a backup-one on each side. Just in case.
Place a 3rd jack stand under the front crossover at mid point -another insurance idea.Make sure it sees a load.
I have fears of the same thing, especially when you read the jack stands are made in CHINA...
As a kid, I used to do all sorts of work under my hotrods while the car was up on a BUMPER JACK.....God didnt want me then is all I can say...
I bought a set of ramps to do mine. Its a little tight between the ramp and the jack. I had trouble aligning the power steering bracket with the holes in the mount and block. Overall, not too tricky.
I just got done replaceing a broken drivers side mount on my 76. I put jack stands on the frame behind the front wheels and chocked the rear wheels with a couple of bricks. I then took off the alternator and drivers side exhaust manifold and spark plugs (just so i didn't brake one off). I took of the three bolts holding the mount to the motor. I used and engine hoist to hold up the motor and took the long bolt out of the frame. I then raised the motor and took the old mount out and slid the new one in. I then got the three bolts back in and lowered teh motor to get the long bolt in. Once all bolts were in, I then tightened all of them up. Then I put everyting else back on and lowered the car. Now there is no more rocking of the motor.