Head Bolts???
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,909
Likes: 26
From: Clymer PA
Re: Head Bolts??? (72rdstr)
72rdstr:
The ARP head bolts were donated to me by a forum member so I will be using them (I'm cheap). A big block doesn't leave much room in the engine compartment. If I were to use head studs, I may not be able to pull the head off the engine (while in the car) without pulling the engine itself. That would be a big bummer. Looks like it's Permatex #2 for me :)
The ARP head bolts were donated to me by a forum member so I will be using them (I'm cheap). A big block doesn't leave much room in the engine compartment. If I were to use head studs, I may not be able to pull the head off the engine (while in the car) without pulling the engine itself. That would be a big bummer. Looks like it's Permatex #2 for me :)
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Louisville KY
Re: Head Bolts??? (Steve Adkins)
Hey!
I agree that a sealant should be used on all threads. If you think about it, an anti-sieze should be used to prevent the bolt from "sticking". The only way a bolt will stick is from rust. If you use a water tight, semi-hardening sealant ( not silicone) then your bolts should remain unstuck.
As a comparison, my machinist recommended Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Sealant Liquid (Part No. 80019). I'll be using this on my head bolts soon!
Rod Hisle :flag
I agree that a sealant should be used on all threads. If you think about it, an anti-sieze should be used to prevent the bolt from "sticking". The only way a bolt will stick is from rust. If you use a water tight, semi-hardening sealant ( not silicone) then your bolts should remain unstuck.
As a comparison, my machinist recommended Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Sealant Liquid (Part No. 80019). I'll be using this on my head bolts soon!
Rod Hisle :flag
Racer
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 267
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA USA
Re: Head Bolts??? (rod73vette)
You people have been reading too many magazine articles written by people who build nothing but race engines. :)
I've built many thousands of stock & mild hiperf engines in my previous life as a production engine machinist/assembler. NOT ONE of them got 'sealer' on the head bolts. Torque specs are written for clean, dry threads. Putting goop on them invalidates your torquewrench readings.
BTW, I've removed tens of thousands of headbolts - many from rusty 'core' motors - and I've never had one get stuck. (antifreeze tends to prevent excessive rust buildup)
I've built many thousands of stock & mild hiperf engines in my previous life as a production engine machinist/assembler. NOT ONE of them got 'sealer' on the head bolts. Torque specs are written for clean, dry threads. Putting goop on them invalidates your torquewrench readings.
BTW, I've removed tens of thousands of headbolts - many from rusty 'core' motors - and I've never had one get stuck. (antifreeze tends to prevent excessive rust buildup)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,429
Likes: 14
From: CA
Re: Head Bolts??? (soundguy)
Stick with bolts - ARP:
I use teflon sealant on all of the bolts. Just put on enough to get in the threads good, not too much. I've found that the thread sealant ARP & Felpro sells tends to harden up with time.
When you install the washers on the bolts make sure the chamfered side of the washer goes toward the bolt head (there is a radus under the head) Put motor oil on both sides of the washer to get a good torque reading.
You should have no problems with leaks.
I use teflon sealant on all of the bolts. Just put on enough to get in the threads good, not too much. I've found that the thread sealant ARP & Felpro sells tends to harden up with time.
When you install the washers on the bolts make sure the chamfered side of the washer goes toward the bolt head (there is a radus under the head) Put motor oil on both sides of the washer to get a good torque reading.
You should have no problems with leaks.
