Adjustable Strut Rod Installation
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Adjustable Strut Rod Installation
My new strut rods just arrived and I noticed there is a "R" on one and and a "L" on the other.. Am I safe to assume this just signifies the thread direction? Does it matter which end of the rod goes towards the inside or outside? For example, does the "R" end on both rods go toward the inside? I just love how none of this stuff comes with any directions at all..
Thanks for any help!!
Thanks for any help!!
Instructor
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From: Greer SC
I think they work either way. I have mine off at home so I can check if no one else replys by 6pm est. time. Sorry I can't help anymore right now. But I think If you are looking at the rear you can just turn one "R" to the outer on the passenger wheel and the "L" to the outer on the driver wheel.
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I think they work either way. I have mine off at home so I can check if no one else replys by 6pm est. time. Sorry I can't help anymore right now. But I think If you are looking at the rear you can just turn one "R" to the outer on the passenger wheel and the "L" to the outer on the driver wheel.
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More help please
At what point do you shim your tailing arms when installing a complete new rear end (everything is new from the drivesahft back)? I just installed one of my new strut rods and noticed the front bushings on my trailing arms are now popped out
At what point do you shim your tailing arms when installing a complete new rear end (everything is new from the drivesahft back)? I just installed one of my new strut rods and noticed the front bushings on my trailing arms are now popped out
Instructor
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From: Greer SC
I just got my trailing arms back this weekend so you caught me at a good time. I asked the same question. I was told if you have the old shims and had them labeled just put those back then have aligned to check. If you do like me and buy the new stainless steel shim kit you can (1) match the steel ones to your old ones or (2) take the new ones and somwhat split the difference of both sides and make sure you take the shims left over to give the tech that will do your alignment. You definatley don't want to drive too long without an alignment. 
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I just got my trailing arms back this weekend so you caught me at a good time. I asked the same question. I was told if you have the old shims and had them labeled just put those back then have aligned to check. If you do like me and buy the new stainless steel shim kit you can (1) match the steel ones to your old ones or (2) take the new ones and somwhat split the difference of both sides and make sure you take the shims left over to give the tech that will do your alignment. You definatley don't want to drive too long without an alignment.
I cant believe how far off the alignment is on the outer strut rod end when mounting it on the trailing arm. I had to push it over about 1.5" to get it mounted and that wasnt easy.. Seems like it puts alot of stress on something.
Race Director
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There is something wrong with your trailing arm bushings if they popped out. Installing the shims before or after the strut rods are attached makes no difference.
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I'm now down to installing the lower shock mounts (press ift) and then the outer leaf spring bushings.. I have a scheduled 1/8 mile drag meet I'm hoping to make in less than 3 weeks..
Last edited by Fishndude; Jun 14, 2010 at 05:16 PM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: eastern NC
If the bushings were installed properly, there is no way for them to "pop out". They are held in place by a bushing that is designed to hold them securely.
This is what the bushing looks like before it has been "staked" in place.
(courtesy of Micro Controls http://www.micro-controls.com/cartools-bushing.html)
Here is what the tool looks like that is used to "stake" the bushing.
If the bushings are able to move at all, someone has not installed them correctly.
Good luck... GUSTO
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The guy that rebuilt the trailing arms was recommended by a few members here and I have already had nothing but problems with this guy.. First he sat on my trailing arms waiting for me to call, instead of calling me (he had a question). Luckilly I called after a week to find out what was going on and he says "Oh, I've been waiting for you to call"
Then he finally ships the trailing arms and forgets to include the adjustable strut rods and lower shock mounts so there's another 3-4 day wait.. When the shock mounts finally arrive, I find out that he sent me a pair of the same ones.. And now this??? He'll be getting a call from me tomorrow
Instructor
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From: Greer SC
I hate to say it but with gusto. The bushings are not supposed to move. Don't feel bad I had my arms rebuilt three years ago and the guy used the same spindle shims and crush sleeves That's why I just had mine redone again, because there was too much play.
with gusto. The bushings are not supposed to move. Don't feel bad I had my arms rebuilt three years ago and the guy used the same spindle shims and crush sleeves That's why I just had mine redone again, because there was too much play.
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PS on the strut rods I have mine "R" out on the right and "L" out on the left
Instructor
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From: Greer SC
I'm sure that's comforting for you. It's crazy for these cars to be one of "THE" longest running body styles there are so FEW local people ( I mean anyones local) that know how to correct any of the problems we have. THANK YOU ALL FOR THE FORUM!!!!
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Advanced
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Stillman Valey Illinois
According to Jim, the guy that rebuilt the trailing arms, the "Poly" bushings are not "Staked" in place. He said he runs into them trying to pop out all the time. He said just push them back in, shim it and tighten the bolt and there wont be any issues.. He rebuilds trailing arms for large distributor so I 'm hoping he knows what he's talking about..
Thats exactly what I did, thank you!!!
Thats exactly what I did, thank you!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: eastern NC
According to Jim, the guy that rebuilt the trailing arms, the "Poly" bushings are not "Staked" in place. He said he runs into them trying to pop out all the time. He said just push them back in, shim it and tighten the bolt and there wont be any issues.. He rebuilds trailing arms for large distributor so I 'm hoping he knows what he's talking about..
If he used poly bushings that account for that, that's a different matter. The shims can account for lateral play, but not fore and aft play if the bolt is undersized excessively to the bushing centers.
Personally I'd give Dan, at Van Steel a call and discuss it with him. I know that Van Steel has done more trailing arm rebuilds than I could count (as have some others), but I would certainly trust their judgment.
Good luck... GUSTO
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Kingston Ontario
The poly bushings I've used in the past had a really thick inner sleeve(in stock trailing arms), I don't know how you would stake that. As for the strut rod, it doesn't matter, you might want to orient both of them with the same direction thread on the outer or inner side.
Last edited by BB72; Jun 16, 2010 at 01:54 PM.
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Rich, in that case, whether they are staked or not, I would be concerned that the bushings fit the through bolts as designed. In other words if the poly bushings he used were designed to accommodate a sleeve (illustrated above and used to stake the bushings) and he did not install them, your trailing arms are going to have more fore and aft play than I would feel comfortable with. The sleeve is designed to take up the slack between the bushings and the through bolt.
If he used poly bushings that account for that, that's a different matter. The shims can account for lateral play, but not fore and aft play if the bolt is undersized excessively to the bushing centers.
Personally I'd give Dan, at Van Steel a call and discuss it with him. I know that Van Steel has done more trailing arm rebuilds than I could count (as have some others), but I would certainly trust their judgment.
Good luck... GUSTO
If he used poly bushings that account for that, that's a different matter. The shims can account for lateral play, but not fore and aft play if the bolt is undersized excessively to the bushing centers.
Personally I'd give Dan, at Van Steel a call and discuss it with him. I know that Van Steel has done more trailing arm rebuilds than I could count (as have some others), but I would certainly trust their judgment.
Good luck... GUSTO
Thanks again
Rich
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Poly bushings are not staked in and thus there's nothing but friction keeping them in the TA sleeve. But even with a healthy slathering of silicone grease, it still takes a good deal of pressure to get them in and out (I used a vice). So I too would be a bit suspect of them just sliding out when installing the TA.
My poly bushings never slid out, but the cap washers did pop off either side in the process of installing them. Once the shims were in everything got smushed into place though.
Fishndude, what brand of bushings are you using?
My poly bushings never slid out, but the cap washers did pop off either side in the process of installing them. Once the shims were in everything got smushed into place though.
Fishndude, what brand of bushings are you using?