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Hello, I'm finding that my factory headlights on my 74 have the 2 outside lights on during low beam function and then shuts off those when the inner high beams are used. Is there a simple way to keep the low beams lit while activating the high beams?
FWIW, I'm trying to wire BiXenon lights and they work great during the low beam function, but shut off when the high beams are selected which obviously won't work. I'm hoping to use the high beam switch for activating the shutter of the BiXenon.
Hello, I'm finding that my factory headlights on my 74 have the 2 outside lights on during low beam function and then shuts off those when the inner high beams are used. Is there a simple way to keep the low beams lit while activating the high beams?
Sounds like the high beam filaments in the outer bulbs are burned out.
Well its actually hard to tell, but all 4 plugs have power thru the green wires, but when I change the hi beam switch, only the brown wires (2 plugs) become power while the green wires then have no power to them.
The 3 prong plugs have brown, green, and black wires while the 2 prong plugs have just green and black.
Green is high and you should have 4 filaments lit 2 in the high beam inner bulbs and 2 in the low beam bulbs. Remember the low beam bulb has 2 filaments , a low beam filement and a high beam filament.
High beam has only 1 a high beam filament.
6 filaments in 4 bulbs
OK reread your OP. Not sure what you want exactly but here is a thought.
You could use the headlight switch to turn on only your low beams through the brown wires by tying the blue at the dimmer to the brown removing them from the dimmer.
Then by adding a hot wire to the dimmer you can turn the high beams on using the dimmer.
This way you can have all your beams on and not overload the HL switch.
Well its actually hard to tell, but all 4 plugs have power thru the green wires, but when I change the hi beam switch, only the brown wires (2 plugs) become power while the green wires then have no power to them.
The 3 prong plugs have brown, green, and black wires while the 2 prong plugs have just green and black.
Originally Posted by SmokedTires
NO, I want either the brown or the green to stay on when the high beam switch is activated.
The dimmers job is to have either the brown hot OR the green hot , not both.
Maybe I'm confused but it sounds like you have either the brown hot - low beams or you have the green hot - high beams.
The dimmers job is to have either the brown hot OR the green hot , not both.
Maybe I'm confused but it sounds like you have either the brown hot - low beams or you have the green hot - high beams.
Yes, thats exactly my problem. I need one of them to stay hot when switched
Yes, thats exactly my problem. I need one of them to stay hot when switched
I think we are going in circles because I think your car is fine other than the stock low beam bulbs are bad but when I get hungry my brain goes fuzzy so I'm going to go eat and then reread and think about this.
I'm trying to install lights that are both hi and low beam in one. They have a shutter that partially covers the beam during low beam, then the shutter lifts exposing the whole beam for high beam. I can control the shutter with the dimmer switch like stock, however I can't have the bulb go out when switching.
I'm trying to install lights that are both hi and low beam in one. They have a shutter that partially covers the beam during low beam, then the shutter lifts exposing the whole beam for high beam. I can control the shutter with the dimmer switch like stock, however I can't have the bulb go out when switching.
Uploading pics, will post soon.
Oh I got it. You could run the wire that powers the bulb in and attach it to the blue at the dimmer switch. This way whenever the headlight switch is pulled out the bulb will have power,then the green or brown can control the shutter.
( I think this would be easier than putting diodes in so you can power the bulb from both the green and brown. )
That sounds more like we're on the same page So what you're saying is, run a new wire to the dimmer switch and I should have constant power at the light as long as its to the blue?
You just need to make sure the [blue] wiring (and any others you make changes to), and the fuses in those systems, can support any added current load your new system will require. Otherwise, you will fry a fusible link in your wiring harness and be "out of business" very quickly.