Switch Sticking on Ignition lock ?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 40
Switch Sticking on Ignition lock ?
I have 74 corvette with tilt column. Key goes in the lock easy or normal, but when I turn the key to "START" crank the engine it doesn't want to spring back or return to normal by it self to the "ON" . I have turn it back manuel to get the starter to release. It used to stick a little or every 10 or so starts , now it pretty much constant.
I don't know what all the switch mech inside looks like, if the electrical contracts are sealed or exposed...... so I have resisted the temptation so squirt any lubicant around the cylinder outside.
Can this be lubricated with out screwing up electical contacts or is a spring broken ? . I've never had any of this apart nor do I know how to take it apart .
Any ideas?
Maybe I'll take it to a garage?
I don't know what all the switch mech inside looks like, if the electrical contracts are sealed or exposed...... so I have resisted the temptation so squirt any lubicant around the cylinder outside.
Can this be lubricated with out screwing up electical contacts or is a spring broken ? . I've never had any of this apart nor do I know how to take it apart .
Any ideas?
Maybe I'll take it to a garage?
Last edited by LS4 PILOT; Jun 17, 2010 at 11:04 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
Realistically, you have nothing to loose by lubricating the lock cylinder, that's about all you can reach anyway. It may be one part broken or just a combination wear and dirt on all of them adding up. On my 75 recently, it was just a combination of all the parts worn and dirty and a total R&R made it smooth as silk. Total cost of parts was was around 30 bucks.
Search for Jim Shea papers here for instructions.
Return to "on" quickly or you can cause pricey starter ring gear repairs.
Search for Jim Shea papers here for instructions.
Return to "on" quickly or you can cause pricey starter ring gear repairs.
The key lock cylinder in the off position will move in and out approx 3/32".
I took mine apart yesterday. I was very fortunate, in that no one had been in there before to butcher it.
Same symptoms as yours. Nothing in it was broken, although the lock cylinder itself was worn a bit, but still operated freely by itself.
I found that each moving part, rack, sector, etc had some friction resistance, both from a little galling on the aluminum where the parts met and also from some very little buildup of old grease and dirt on the mating parts. I sanded all the mating surfaces with 600 grit wet and dry and polished with alum wheel polish. The parts move and slide much, much more smoothly now, even with no grease. When assembling I will use some teflon grease, best light grease I have found.
Got a new key cylinder lock assembly with 2 keys from AutoZone for $12.99. Good insurance for that little a price. Any GM from that era is the same. Also had a new sector gear and ignition switch on hand, so will install them. The spring action in "start" in the old switch seemed as strong as the new.
Polishing etc might be overkill, but the last one I did was so smooth a baby could operate it.
I'll try and post some pics later tonite or tomorrow.
Hope this helps a bit.
I took mine apart yesterday. I was very fortunate, in that no one had been in there before to butcher it.
Same symptoms as yours. Nothing in it was broken, although the lock cylinder itself was worn a bit, but still operated freely by itself.
I found that each moving part, rack, sector, etc had some friction resistance, both from a little galling on the aluminum where the parts met and also from some very little buildup of old grease and dirt on the mating parts. I sanded all the mating surfaces with 600 grit wet and dry and polished with alum wheel polish. The parts move and slide much, much more smoothly now, even with no grease. When assembling I will use some teflon grease, best light grease I have found.
Got a new key cylinder lock assembly with 2 keys from AutoZone for $12.99. Good insurance for that little a price. Any GM from that era is the same. Also had a new sector gear and ignition switch on hand, so will install them. The spring action in "start" in the old switch seemed as strong as the new.
Polishing etc might be overkill, but the last one I did was so smooth a baby could operate it.
I'll try and post some pics later tonite or tomorrow.
Hope this helps a bit.
You absolutely will need this part
GM 7808385 available still from GM or Corvette Central for $7.95 or most other venders (various prices).
This is only $9.95 at AutoZone.
Here are some problems I found in this column, but nothing broken.
Sanded and polished all mating surfaces, parts and housings, don't show all the pics, took about an hour. Will use a fairly lite Teflon waterproof grease. Should be good for another 40 years.
GM 7808385 available still from GM or Corvette Central for $7.95 or most other venders (various prices).
This is only $9.95 at AutoZone.
Here are some problems I found in this column, but nothing broken.
Sanded and polished all mating surfaces, parts and housings, don't show all the pics, took about an hour. Will use a fairly lite Teflon waterproof grease. Should be good for another 40 years.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 98
From: Ontario
Noonie's post is very thorough and well-documented! Nice job. That may be the solution.
I would be inclined to first try a few squirts of WD-40 where the key enters. When I first bought my 1974 (two years ago) the key would not move to the "Accessory" position. WD-40 did the trick. No problems since.
I would be inclined to first try a few squirts of WD-40 where the key enters. When I first bought my 1974 (two years ago) the key would not move to the "Accessory" position. WD-40 did the trick. No problems since.
Last edited by Paul L; Jun 19, 2010 at 09:10 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 40
Thanks for the fast reply fellows. I squirted a shot of penitration oil around the cyl lock and tried to work it in good. Not much luck though so far. Maybe it will loosen up over nite. There seems to be some resistance or spring , but not enought to return the cylinder . Feels very sticky to me , like there is liquid glue in there drying. BUt, be a convertible I guess it is more susceptable to tree sape, and other dirts and greases that can creep in.
I guess I need to pull that key cylinder out .
I guess I need to pull that key cylinder out .
Last edited by LS4 PILOT; Jun 17, 2010 at 01:55 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 860
Likes: 0
From: Stratford Ontario
Try loosening the two bolts under the dash that hold the steering wheel up. I have almost completed a frame off on a 73 vert and it was doing the exact same thing when I went to start it for first time.I thought something had gone wrong with the ignition switch because it worked fine when body was off. I went to look at the connection for the switch and lowered the steering wheel to get at it. I couldn't see it so I tried the key to see if I could feel it and it was working fine. I placed two washers on the bolts but when I tightened them up it got sticky again. I backed the bolts off slightly and it works fine now. It might save tearing into the ignition for You good luck. Timsride
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 596
Likes: 6
From: Irving Texas
If the problem is that the key cylinder wont return back off of the start position.....
it's not the key cylinder. The cylinder only turns when you turn it.
The springing back motion is a spring located in the ignition switch located in the lower half of the column. Autozone sells a new one cheap but you have to lower the column to change it out.
More details: a spring inside the ignition switch is stretched when you turn to start. The metal rod connects to a slot in the switch and runs up the column to the key cylinder. The rod is the only thing you can see outside of the column. You can hot wire the car by cutting the metal rod and pushing it down(or pulling it up)...I forget, its been a while ago!
it's not the key cylinder. The cylinder only turns when you turn it.
The springing back motion is a spring located in the ignition switch located in the lower half of the column. Autozone sells a new one cheap but you have to lower the column to change it out.
More details: a spring inside the ignition switch is stretched when you turn to start. The metal rod connects to a slot in the switch and runs up the column to the key cylinder. The rod is the only thing you can see outside of the column. You can hot wire the car by cutting the metal rod and pushing it down(or pulling it up)...I forget, its been a while ago!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,589
Likes: 5
From: Salisbury Maryland
My 69 had the same problem. After 25 or so starts, it broke/locked up. Don't be afraid! It's most likely the plastic gear. Two of the teeth on mine had broke. It starts with the gear jumping teeth, allowing the car to be started and feeling like it's not springing back. While there is some spring action, it's not the same because the gear has jumped one or two teeth. The plastic gear is brittle and just breaks up!
It's about a 2 hour job.
Use Jim's sheets they are very helpful. Read through removing steering wheel and horn assembly several times before starting, then jump in. Fairly easy.
It's about a 2 hour job.
Use Jim's sheets they are very helpful. Read through removing steering wheel and horn assembly several times before starting, then jump in. Fairly easy.
