I found your article, awesome btw! The one I bought V353 is a B9- so according to that article it is for a 69-70 Corvette 350/300 HP. I'm all good!
Electronic Ignition vs Distributor
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Ball Ground Georgia
Electronic Ignition vs Distributor
What are the advantages of changing to electronic ignition other than getting rid of the points? How complicated is it to change? Any recommendations on which one to change to. I have a 71 Vette with a 350. This is not the original engine in the car and it has been estimated at 350hp.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Vancouver British Columbia
Petronix
What are the advantages of changing to electronic ignition other than getting rid of the points? How complicated is it to change? Any recommendations on which one to change to. I have a 71 Vette with a 350. This is not the original engine in the car and it has been estimated at 350hp.
Cheers
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 74
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From: Vancouver British Columbia
Not with the Petronix , you keep the cap, wires and I use their coil. I also used Platinum plugs with a .060 Gap. There is a lot of opinions about Plug Gap, but I find .060 works great for my car.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
I've done back-to-back dyno testing of a standard points system and various aftermarket electronic conversions. There is no change in engine output as long as the advance curve remains the same. That said, the elimination of the points drag on the advance system tends to slightly quicken the advance curve, and this will produce an increase in low and mid-range torque. You can achieve the same result by simply re-curving your distributor and optimizing its curve.
A good set of points will perform flawlessly up through your redline rpm, and they will hold their adjustment for years of service. I've never understood the fascination with wanting to replace a system that actually works very well with an different system that offers few, if any, advantages.
Lars
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From: Vancouver British Columbia
Lars
I have to replace my vacuum advance can, I picked up one but it might be for an HEI (part # V353 - Borg Warner) , is there a difference? Should I ask specifically for the non HEI can?
I have to replace my vacuum advance can, I picked up one but it might be for an HEI (part # V353 - Borg Warner) , is there a difference? Should I ask specifically for the non HEI can?
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Joined: Aug 1999
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
The B9 vacuum advance control unit is not a good choice for vacuum advance. That unit pulls in about 21 degrees of advance, and doesn't pull it all in until you hit 18 inches of vacuum. Unless you are pulling about 20 inches of vacuum at idle in drive, that unit won't work well. Also, current fuel blends in available pump gas don't allow much more than 12-14 degrees of vacuum advance without causing "jerking" and "chugging" at light throttle cruise due to over-advanced timing from the vacuum advance.
For a mild performance application, use the B26 and shorten the advance from 16 degrees to about 12 degrees by welding a small dab into the end of the limit slot.
Lars
For a mild performance application, use the B26 and shorten the advance from 16 degrees to about 12 degrees by welding a small dab into the end of the limit slot.
Lars
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Vancouver British Columbia
????
The B9 vacuum advance control unit is not a good choice for vacuum advance. That unit pulls in about 21 degrees of advance, and doesn't pull it all in until you hit 18 inches of vacuum. Unless you are pulling about 20 inches of vacuum at idle in drive, that unit won't work well. Also, current fuel blends in available pump gas don't allow much more than 12-14 degrees of vacuum advance without causing "jerking" and "chugging" at light throttle cruise due to over-advanced timing from the vacuum advance.
For a mild performance application, use the B26 and shorten the advance from 16 degrees to about 12 degrees by welding a small dab into the end of the limit slot.
Lars
For a mild performance application, use the B26 and shorten the advance from 16 degrees to about 12 degrees by welding a small dab into the end of the limit slot.
Lars
Am I not reading this right? Is there something I can use without welding?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 14,385
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Ok, now I am confused. Going by this article, which I thought you wrote, it tells me that B9 is the ticket. http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...c_Adv_Spec.pdf
Am I not reading this right? Is there something I can use without welding?
Am I not reading this right? Is there something I can use without welding?
"I don't post any of my articles on the Internet. Do not download my articles off the Internet because they tend to be outdated and obsolete. For copies of my articles, contact me directly via e-mail:
V8FastCars@msn.com
Use the B26 unit and shorten its stroke. No, there are no units with a stroke that's short enough for today's fuel - the units are made to their original specs to support fuel which no longer exists, so you have to modify the parts to tune the car for current operating conditions.
Lars
