intake surgery
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 442
Likes: 6
From: jacksonville Florida
intake surgery
well I found the coolant leak. driver side rear end of the intake manifold is juicing coolant. Time to replace the gaskets on my '82 crossfire, anything I should know or also replace while im in that area???
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Europe, France
I always make a mark on the distributor collar and the intake manifold before removal. In doing so, you're sure to be in the ballpark when you first fire the engine.
I often take a picture of the distributor cap with the spark plug wires too. Most of times I don't need it, but just in case... Never trust your memory !
Also check that the cylinder #1 is in firing position when you remove the distributor :
Remove the cap and check that the distributor rotor is aligned with #1 spark plug wire. The 0° mark on the damper should also be aligned with the pointer.
When you remove the distributor, the shaft will turn a few degrees CCW. Note that amount, it will be easier to reinstall it later.
ONCE THE DISTRIBUTOR IS REMOVED, DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE !
Drain coolant and remove the manifold. Remove the old gaskets with a razor blade and clean the metal surfaces thoroughly. Do not let pieces of gaskets fall into the engine.
Use some droplets of Permatex between the side gaskets and the cylinder heads around the bolt holes ( no sealant between the gasket and the intake ! ).
Put back carefully the intake manifold. It's not necessary to torque the bolts. Let the sealant dry one hour and remove carefully the intake manifold again.
Check that the two side gaskets are in the right position. Now you're sure that they won't move.
Use a bed of Permatex sealant instead of the front and rear cork gaskets. Those are prone to slip and leak. Metal parts must be clean and dry.
The four small areas between the block and the heads are very important. This is where most leaks occur.
Now install manifold and torque equally. Let the sealant dry at least 12 hours. Install coolant hoses, fill with coolant and check for leaks.
If everything seems OK, reinstall distributor and wiring, carb linkage, vacuum hoses and all the remaining stuff.
Adjust timing, test drive the car, check for leaks again and retorque the manifold bolts.
While you're there, also check your thermostat. I like thermostats that will fail open and not closed ! It's cheap insurance...
I also like FelPro Performance intake gaskets. They're a bit more expensive but they seal perfectly. It's definitely a job you won't like to do twice... And they have a large choice of port height and width.
Good luck !
I often take a picture of the distributor cap with the spark plug wires too. Most of times I don't need it, but just in case... Never trust your memory !
Also check that the cylinder #1 is in firing position when you remove the distributor :
Remove the cap and check that the distributor rotor is aligned with #1 spark plug wire. The 0° mark on the damper should also be aligned with the pointer.
When you remove the distributor, the shaft will turn a few degrees CCW. Note that amount, it will be easier to reinstall it later.
ONCE THE DISTRIBUTOR IS REMOVED, DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE !
Drain coolant and remove the manifold. Remove the old gaskets with a razor blade and clean the metal surfaces thoroughly. Do not let pieces of gaskets fall into the engine.
Use some droplets of Permatex between the side gaskets and the cylinder heads around the bolt holes ( no sealant between the gasket and the intake ! ).
Put back carefully the intake manifold. It's not necessary to torque the bolts. Let the sealant dry one hour and remove carefully the intake manifold again.
Check that the two side gaskets are in the right position. Now you're sure that they won't move.
Use a bed of Permatex sealant instead of the front and rear cork gaskets. Those are prone to slip and leak. Metal parts must be clean and dry.
The four small areas between the block and the heads are very important. This is where most leaks occur.
Now install manifold and torque equally. Let the sealant dry at least 12 hours. Install coolant hoses, fill with coolant and check for leaks.
If everything seems OK, reinstall distributor and wiring, carb linkage, vacuum hoses and all the remaining stuff.
Adjust timing, test drive the car, check for leaks again and retorque the manifold bolts.
While you're there, also check your thermostat. I like thermostats that will fail open and not closed ! It's cheap insurance...
I also like FelPro Performance intake gaskets. They're a bit more expensive but they seal perfectly. It's definitely a job you won't like to do twice... And they have a large choice of port height and width.
Good luck !
Last edited by 73StreetRace; Jul 6, 2010 at 02:40 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 1
From: Europe, France
If you want to know what your intake manifold is made of, you can check it with a simple magnet : if it doesn't stick to it, it is aluminum.
About the pitted surfaces, my Holley Street Dominator was still very clean after 25 years, so why not yours ?
About the pitted surfaces, my Holley Street Dominator was still very clean after 25 years, so why not yours ?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,663
Likes: 162
From: columbia city in
if it is a cross-fire intake it is aluminum.make shure you get the right intake kit for cross-fires so that you get the top intake gasket.you can take the top off with the tbs.but be shure to remove all the bolts .then you can take off the intake .http://crossfireinjection.net/you can buy the new intake here.20to 30 hp
Last edited by terry82; Jul 7, 2010 at 01:09 PM.
