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I agree with lars, just hook the red clamp to the bolt being covered by the angled boot and the black clamp to the adjusting bolt on the top of the alternator.
I've used these retractable test leads for a lot of long range electrical issues, but the alternator trick also works well. I've not used an external battery.
i ran a coil of 12g wire from the terminal like a jumper worked fine for me but my windsheild is out so i went straight threw and not around. i tried the alt to find out i got a faultly output seems someone tried to be the incredible hulk and tighten the nut and it just spins but ya thats another project for me.
If you hook it to a separate battery, you will only do it once!
Where is the problem ?
If you use a separate battery, all you have to do is just to connect its negative terminal to the car ground ( chassis, engine, it doesn't matter ).
You can even use any 12V power supply ( rectified and filtered ) the same way.
I use a spare set of jumpers here. Its how I've done it for over ten years, and it works for me, even if using the alt. is a smarter method. I don't mind the extra cabling, usually when I'm playing with the timing, I've got a mity-vac hooked up to the vac advance, and a vacuum gauge or two connected to the carb/intake - so its already a spider's web of extra hoses. I also like the way the cables are further away from the belts and pulleys.
I keep the jumper cables in an old gym bad to keep 'em clean and roll'd up nicely. I also have an old, broken ice scraper in the bag. I hook up one end of the jumpers to the plastic scraper to keep the leads from touchin, then I hook up the other end to the batt. terminals. I then connect my timing light to the leads on the scraper. No sparks here.
Where is the problem ?
If you use a separate battery, all you have to do is just to connect its negative terminal to the car ground ( chassis, engine, it doesn't matter ).
You can even use any 12V power supply ( rectified and filtered ) the same way.
And that is the key - if a separate battery is used, that battery must be connected to car ground and you'll be fine. But I answered the question assuming that the separate battery had no connection to anything except the timing light. And if you do that you will probably get a shock from the timing light as it is connected to the spark plug wire. If the timing light is well insulated, you might not, but it is still important that the separate battery is connected to car ground.
Ahhh makes sense now. Just like grabbing a spark plug wire. My old all metal timing light shorted years ago and knocked me for a loop. I've got a plastic one now.
And that is the key - if a separate battery is used, that battery must be connected to car ground and you'll be fine. But I answered the question assuming that the separate battery had no connection to anything except the timing light. And if you do that you will probably get a shock from the timing light as it is connected to the spark plug wire. If the timing light is well insulated, you might not, but it is still important that the separate battery is connected to car ground.