Ray Y

Has anyone used this kit to drill & tap the rear diff? They claim you don't even have to drain the diff which sounds bizarre at best. I'd like to add a drain plug without dropping the rear end and this sounds too good to be true.

Corvette Central, Kit # 582267

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....5Z5Z50000050D#

...Roger...

I don't get how that kit works.

dburgjohn

Looks like you drill and tap a hole in the bottom of the diff with a paper template to mark where to drill. What I can't figure out is how you drill all the way into the diff without getting shavings inside the diff.

...Roger...

What the hell is that hole saw for ?

noonie

No idea why a whole saw is needed. They generally don't make as clean a hole as a drill bit.

All you need is a drill bit, 1/4" pipe tap and 1/4" pipe plug, just like the ones in the side of the engine block.
The oil will carry 99.9% of any shavings out the hole. After tapping, then flush with more oil.

elke_10

i am lost on the tools in that kit so what you pre drill a hole and follow with that hole saw or what and cant really tell in that pic whats the lil O ring for or is that a allen headed plug? wold love to see the directions on that one lol. i am heading to corvette world this weekend i think to get some parts since they are like 20 miles from my place i am gonna ask to see that.

...Roger...

I think I get it now. They are putting the plug under the sway bar bracket , so you use the hole saw to make access through the bracket.
I always put my drain hole up front under the pinion , easy access and if you jacked the car from the rear all the fluid came out.

dburgjohn

Ok that makes sense, but what do the four holes in the template line up with? Was just under mind doing trailing arms and done remember seeing any 'four' things with that spacing.

The shavings going out with the oil makes sense too. Maybe this is a good idea.

c69vete

Those 4 holes are the bolts that mount the strut rod bracket to the rear. As stated above, the hole saw will make a clearance hole in the bracket. The shavings will be washed out as you drill and tap the case. IT WILL BE MESSY. LOL. If you are going to drop the bracket, a step drill or a 1/2 in drill bit will get you the clearance you need. Then a letter R drill and a 1/8 in pipe tap will do the job. A 10 cent pipe plug and you are done.

Mike Ward

Let's see now, diff oil change is done once, twice per decade (if that)?

So once every five years,

pull out your suck'em out bulb gun thing ($10.00) and two minutes removing the old oil.

OR


spend $77.00 and a few hours labour drilling holes in perfectly good diff and suspension, hoping that shavings don't go inside, the drill doesn't break, the hole is perpendicular, the plug fits, doesn't seize and doesn't leak.

Bob Heine

The bracket on the right is the one they expect you to drill. I haven't seen the instructions but I suspect they want you to remove the strut bar braket and use the template to mark the hole, then use the hole saw to drill through the bracket. Then I assume you use the template to drill through the differential housing with the drill. Next step would be to tap the hole in the differential housing for the plug. Looked like a good idea but $77.00? Two drill bits, a tap and a plug? Template must be on some expensive paper....

7T1vette

Somebody thought it was a good idea...

joewill

Mike , you are the best at telling it like it is and getting to the bottom line.

plus, if I was looking to buy a car and saw this setup .. I don't think I would buy it...

Ray Y

OK you guys have convienced me...I'd like to have a drain plug but I'm willing to wait until I drop the rear end this winter and do it right then without buying an expensive kit.

...Roger...

Sorry I meant strut bracket. :o

...Roger...

OK I guess I can agree but only if the suck"em thing is cute, has a nice rack and doesn't mind getting dirty.

bashcraft

That might be asking a lot for $10.

turtlevette

Why does everyone drill the case.? Anytime you drill it creates a potential stress point where a crack can develop.

When and if i do mine, i'll drill the rear cover.

noonie

You don't have to drill under the bracket.
Here is the best spot. It's at the lowest point in the diff and yet you still miss the pinion race boss and bracket by a bunch.

Nice thing about a drain, you can flush to clean the inside a bit.

Red 71

This is a very entertaining thread to me. Why make such a big deal over something that is so simple. I drilled a 1/8" pipe tap hole about 3" back from the yoke (used a air drill since it was gonna get messy) offset about a 1/2" from the center. Did not suck the oil out first cause I would not be able to get it all out. 1/8" pipe tap and then a pipe plug from my junk box. Using a pipe plug, the hole does not have to be perfectly perpendicular to the drive line. I go to sleep at night not worrying about my differential splitting in half. Remember, this is a round hole. Think about that! If I ever wanted to check for any metal in the housing from wear I can easily flush it out with the drain plug. Sucky-sucky machine does not work that well for this.

No offense to anyone but if you would even consider spending $77 for this kit, perhaps you need to have a trusted shop do the work for you.