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In regards to an original radiator, aluminum or copper/brass.. , when a shop boils it out to clean it what exactly is done? Is there really that much gunk in a 40 year old radiator that cleaning it can make it run noticibly cooler? Will it damage it being it maybe so worn and thin in spots it will leak?
In regards to an original radiator, aluminum or copper/brass.. , when a shop boils it out to clean it what exactly is done? Is there really that much gunk in a 40 year old radiator that cleaning it can make it run noticibly cooler? Will it damage it being it maybe so worn and thin in spots it will leak?
Don't even think about it! - just replace with best you can afford (Dewitts if you can) - the gills in the old rad will be brittle - it will be very difficult to clean-out properly - almost impossible to properly repair any leaks.
In regards to an original radiator, aluminum or copper/brass.. , when a shop boils it out to clean it what exactly is done? Is there really that much gunk in a 40 year old radiator that cleaning it can make it run noticibly cooler? Will it damage it being it maybe so worn and thin in spots it will leak?
I would say the original aluminum (68-72) radiators used on base cars, manual trans, and no air, would not be worth spending a dime. If these are clogged up it is likely this sludge is also plugging the radiator from leaking externally too. Just throw it out and get a new aluminum radiator. Don't buy one of the cheaper copper units as these do not have the same heat rejection as aluminum.
If you have an original copper/brass radiator you have more options. You could have them "rot" it out which an aggressive acid boil, and it might blow a hole. Or you would simply have the radiator re-cored with a new one, as long as your end tanks are in good shape. Most of the replacement cores are different than the stock GM and if you are looking to keep it stock we do make correct replacement cores for this. Finally, you could upgrade to an aluminum Direct Fit model.
The 72 that we bought had been sitting for 10 years. It had the original 350 base engine aluminum radiator. As soon as we got the engine running the radiator turned into a tea kettle - steam and leaks everywhere. I replaced the original radiator with a DeWitt's and SPAL fan and even though the car is now running a LS1 with 400+ HP the temps are very well controlled.
Don't even think about it! - just replace with best you can afford (Dewitts if you can) - the gills in the old rad will be brittle - it will be very difficult to clean-out properly - almost impossible to properly repair any leaks.
Mine with 500+ hp is using a Dewitts rad with stock fan & shroud - runs around 175/180 degrees no problem.