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I have a stripped wheel stud on the rear driver side. I figured it would be a quick punch out job, so I took it to a mechanic. He said the axle has to be removed and its a 4 - 5 hour job. He said it would be around $350. Ouch, to fix a stripped wheel stud. So is he correct? I did a forum search and read that it was a pain, but I didn't see anything about removing the axle. I think I might have to rethink this and try to tackle it myself. Any suggestions/tips/ etc?
there's been several posts on this topic. use the search function to find them. i've never done it, but if memory serves me correctly, the posters say the rotor interferes with removing the stud, so it's a bigger job than it looks.
no, you don't have to remove the axle. You do have to get the wheel hub off of the car and this means removing the rotor which could still be riveted to the wheel hub. If so drill the rivets out. Then you have to worry about the parking brake assembly and such. It's not a fun job but then again not too bad. I did both fronts on mine last week and they took about 45-60 mins each. Do you have an AIM specific for your car? It is great for pointing out all the many parts of how something is put together.
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The new wheel stud will not fit in from the rear so to do it properly you have to pull the axle and backing plate. Doing that means you have to replace the bearings and to do that you need several special tools.
Quick way:
Mark and remove the rotor
Remove the parking brake and drill thru the backing plate.
Rally or aluminum wheels? I bought a set of nice shiny new lug nuts for my 79 with aluminum wheels. As I was swapping out the rusty ones on the left rear I found I had a stripped stud. However this was a preexisting condition as the PO had substituted one lug nut for one that was stamped "Crager." This particular nut had a longer shank on it than the stock one and was able to grab undamaged threads a little farther down on the stud. I was able to obtain 100 ft/lb of torque on it.
You're basically going to end up doing the rear wheel bearings because you have to pull the spindle to get at the studs. If you're going to have someone tackle the job have the trailing arms rebuilt. You're going to have them apart anyway, might as well save trouble down the road.
I have some original aluminum wheels that I will be putting on it. I am going to buy all new lug nuts when I put them on. The place is supposed to be seeing if they could maybe re-thread it. If its going to cost $350 like he initially said, I will probably see if I can get the new nuts on it first. Also I was thinking, if it is stripped close to the end, just cut that part off and have a shorter stud. Or file it all smooth at that spot and have the thread just start a little lower on the stud.
Take the rear disks off, as mentioned, if they are original, then you have to drill out the rivets (pretty simple task), then bang the **** outa the offending stud till it pops out. If you are doing factory replacement studs, it's easy, they are short, and you just turn the wheel till you can line the hole up to a spot where the new stud can fit in. Put some locktite on it, get it through, then pull it in till it pops with a lug nut and a wrench with a breaker bar. Should take you about 1 hour, from start to finish.
If you are going with AFTERMARKET wheel studs though....well...that's another story
If it's simply messed up from a cross thread, or a loose rim, you might be able chase the threads with a die.
I recently did this on my trailer and it worked out great...
Just take it slow and easy....
Check your studs closely before you proceed.
They don't even have to be cross threaded.
Ran into many wheel studs that were troublesome to put new lug nuts on, stripped the lug nuts easily.
Used a die to chase all the studs and was amazed at all the stringy metal from former lugs that was stuck down in the thread roots. Do that all the time now, it won't hurt the studs.
You can get it out by removing the parking brake adjuster and clearancing the backing plate a little.
I had to change one and was able to fish it in there at the 6 o clock position.
No drilling or removal of axle stubs, etc..I don't remember having any problems at all with the backing plate or anything else in there; really wasn't a big deal at all.
Good time to adjust your parking brake while you are there.