need headlight actuator valve bushing
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 14
Likes: 3
need headlight actuator valve bushing
Hi...newbie here. I'm tearing into a 1973 corvette driver. One headlight actuator valve doesn't hold vacumn. The other is fine. I used info from the web (thanks someone!!) to open the valve up and found that the rubber "bushing" that is pinned to the rod end is damaged...ripped. Can I get just that small rubber bushing or do I have to buy the whole unit?
Instructor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 154
Likes: 3
From: Indiana
Do a search on Willcox Chorvette. He has actuators and I believe he also has rebuild kits. I just ordered a pair of new ones from him for $120. Individual units are $55 each. Beats messing with it then buying a new one afterwards. ( I got two so they match)
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
Likes: 61
From: Wichita KS
I think he's talking about the relay rather than the actuator. The relay has a dumbbell shaped piston inside that slides up and down to change to flow of the vacuum between the front hose and the rear hose of the actuator.
cc
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
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Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Wichita KS
I tried the clamp ring removal method last winter and that was too difficult to do without messing up the plastic and the ring.
cc
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Someone else was doing it by crushing the washer but thats pretty hard to do with the limited space. I made a little tool to put in your drill that removes the crush points on the rod and the piston slips right out. I'm hoping these aluminum pistons will be a long term fix, if the o-rings go bad just put new ones on. The aluminum might be changed to plastic once we get the sizing right.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 154
From: Deplorableville Nebraska
Someone else was doing it by crushing the washer but thats pretty hard to do with the limited space. I made a little tool to put in your drill that removes the crush points on the rod and the piston slips right out. I'm hoping these aluminum pistons will be a long term fix, if the o-rings go bad just put new ones on. The aluminum might be changed to plastic once we get the sizing right.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,117
From: Crossville TN
The the OP:
If you can determine what type of material that 'bushing' is made of, just see what hardware stores (or your junk drawer) has that might fill the bill. A bushing is a pretty simple part: the right material (or decent substitute); correct length, ID & OD are all you need. Most hardware stores carry rubber and nylon "spacers". If you can modify one, give it a try. What have you lost? [nothing but a little time and pocket change]
You can always buy a new one if that doesn't work or hold up.
If you can determine what type of material that 'bushing' is made of, just see what hardware stores (or your junk drawer) has that might fill the bill. A bushing is a pretty simple part: the right material (or decent substitute); correct length, ID & OD are all you need. Most hardware stores carry rubber and nylon "spacers". If you can modify one, give it a try. What have you lost? [nothing but a little time and pocket change]
You can always buy a new one if that doesn't work or hold up.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
The the OP:
If you can determine what type of material that 'bushing' is made of, just see what hardware stores (or your junk drawer) has that might fill the bill. A bushing is a pretty simple part: the right material (or decent substitute); correct length, ID & OD are all you need. Most hardware stores carry rubber and nylon "spacers". If you can modify one, give it a try. What have you lost? [nothing but a little time and pocket change]
You can always buy a new one if that doesn't work or hold up.
If you can determine what type of material that 'bushing' is made of, just see what hardware stores (or your junk drawer) has that might fill the bill. A bushing is a pretty simple part: the right material (or decent substitute); correct length, ID & OD are all you need. Most hardware stores carry rubber and nylon "spacers". If you can modify one, give it a try. What have you lost? [nothing but a little time and pocket change]
You can always buy a new one if that doesn't work or hold up.
OP you can clean the rubber piston and smear on silicone to fill the tear. Some are fitting o rings inside the ends to help with the seal.
There are several threads showing diff ways to fix or rebuild the relays.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
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From: Dayton, Ohio
I also have been working on a replacement piston for relays. I've been working with a plastics engineer and we are settling on delrin as a material, and will be testing 3 different o-rings. Replacement will be through the bottom of relay, with a tube fitting over the existing shaft. The new piston will be drilled to accept the tube inside. Results so far look real good. Will know much more toward the end of next week.
Sounds like were thinking somewhat alike. Whats the tube ? How are you removing the crimped end ? What are you going to use in place of the crimped end ?
The most important question, have you considered the added resistance of the o-rings might make the dreaded " wiper door pops up and goes back down on start up" worse ?
Instructor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 154
Likes: 3
From: Indiana
The $55 was for one actuator (list). The $120 was for two and included tax, title, tip and destination charges.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,802
Likes: 61
From: Wichita KS
No I wasn't. The Actuator is the can inside the headlight assemble. It has the bumbell shaped plunger that opens and closed the door when vaccume is applied. The relay sits in the center front of the grill area and is used to revurse the vaccume flow.
The $55 was for one actuator (list). The $120 was for two and included tax, title, tip and destination charges.
The $55 was for one actuator (list). The $120 was for two and included tax, title, tip and destination charges.
I'm not understanding which piece you are saying is a dumbbell shaped plunger.
cc
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 14
Likes: 3
Great site!!! To clarify just for fun...I'm looking at the headlight actuator RELAY valve, not the larger headlight actuator valve. It moves vacumn between the green hose and the red hose for each headlight. (there is one for each light). Yellow hose connects to the middle, and a small hose to the top of the diaphram housing. A small rubber bushing slides up and down within the tube on a rod to allow one or the other hose to get vacumn....which then goes to the bigger headlight actuator. The bushing, in it's virgin state, is a tubelike piece of rubber legthwise on the rod with sealing flaps on each end. Those thin sealing flaps are delicate, and mine have ripped. The devil in this detail is that it has to run strictly on vacumn, so there can't be much resistence to the bushing's movement within the tube. anyway, thanks for all the thoughts. I'll keep checking around. If we knew who made the ones for sale in all the catalogs, maybe I could find out a source for the part.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 15,892
Likes: 42
I think using the word 'actuator' confused everyone, including me. These are call simply 'relays in the hobby. I'm familiar with the innards of the relay but not with the damaged piece you're referring to. Got a picture?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 24,160
Likes: 78
I also have been working on a replacement piston for relays. I've been working with a plastics engineer and we are settling on delrin as a material, and will be testing 3 different o-rings. Replacement will be through the bottom of relay, with a tube fitting over the existing shaft. The new piston will be drilled to accept the tube inside. Results so far look real good. Will know much more toward the end of next week.
I would be very interested in a product that replaces the dumbell seal.