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My car died last night after getting fuel. It would first crank slow when I tried to re start it and the temp was at 12 o'clock. It then wouldn't even make a noise like there was a disconnected wire. After about 20 minutes of sitting, it started cranking and then started and I got it home.
I have a new heat shield but I am debating weather to replace the whole unit or just put on a heavy duty solenoid and the heat shield. Can I get some help here?
Problem could be worn out brushes in the starter motor, but that's not the most likely cause. I would lean toward bad battery wire connections and/or wire which would limit current carrying capability. The second alternative would be the starter solenoid.
If I were in your shoes [and I have been, not too long ago], I would replace the starter brushes...just because they probably have a lot of wear anyway..., rebuild or replace the solenoid [about the same cost either way], and check condition of all battery cables, terminals, and grounding cable from starter to motor mount. If it has been years since that stuff was done, it is probably time to 'get 'er done'.
P.S. When you replace the brushes in the starter motor, you can check other components of the starter. About the most I have ever seen need for is re-lube of pilot bushings, cleaning it up/re-painting and (possibly) replacing the Bendix drive unit. Not too sure of the quality and reliability of newer Bendix drive units; it might be better to lube it and keep what you have if it's not giving you any trouble.The [stock] motor winding and stator almost never need to be replaced.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Jul 17, 2010 at 01:41 PM.
If you need to replace the starter and you're not worried about originallity, try a high torque mini starter. once mounted there's plenty of room around the exhaust you can eliminate the heat sheild. (just a suggestion)
The price of [aftermarket] starters is so low because they're junk! I wouldn't trade an original GM starter for any aftermarket piece. The windings and construction are so much better from the new stuff. Just my opinion, mind you.
Jack, Your problem sounds like the one I had just a short time ago and I agree with 7T1vette if you have the time and dont mind lying on your back. I ended up chasing the wires to make sure there was continuity throughout the circuit and replacing just the solinoid and brushes. I found somewhere the test procedures for testing the starter. It tested ok. My philisophy is if it works and I dont have to replace it I can spend the $ on something else, like groceries. chuck
Jack, Your problem sounds like the one I had just a short time ago and I agree with 7T1vette if you have the time and dont mind lying on your back. I ended up chasing the wires to make sure there was continuity throughout the circuit and replacing just the solinoid and brushes. I found somewhere the test procedures for testing the starter. It tested ok. My philisophy is if it works and I dont have to replace it I can spend the $ on something else, like groceries. chuck
I cleaned and wire brushed on an 90 psi air wire brush, the terminals last year when I first bought the car.
Over the weekend I popped into a yard sale and lucked out. The man who was running it with his wife used to own a auto parts store in the mid 70's. If I told you the parts that I got (all brand new in boxes NOS) and what I paid you all would get sick.
I will only say that I was able to pick up 2 NOS Delco solenoids in boxes for $3.00. I spent $30.00 there and everything else was on line with that or cheaper. All NOS 40's-70's parts. One more- 4 (Champion from the 50's) Spark plugs for my Model A Ford and 12 Champion from the 60's for my XKE Jaguar all NOS plugs for $5.00.
I will try these solenoids first.
I missed the 3 - 58 Vettes that he sold before I got there.