Still got my bog
paul#1 yes get a good shot from the pump when done by hand.
Pual#2 i have read every bit of that post as my pump is working fine.
as i stated above is still doing this with a different Q-Jet 2 whats the chances of 2 carbs doing the exact same thing on the same car.
I have adjusted the air vavles as lars and others suggested and found out my air vavles where catching on the carb body by the rear air horn screws i filed that away till they where free moving no hanging up. My car ran fine for 2 days after doing that no issues this is just based on back road testing as my car is not fully together.
took it for a run yesterday to make sure all my gauges tach and speedo worked after putting my dash back together and blahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh at high RPM's
timing is dead nuts on. vacuum advance functional.
My neighbor had a Q-Jet of his 350 from a Olds. he let me borrow it to see if it was my carb. placed the Q-Jet from the Olds. took it out and blahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh same exact spot at high RPM.
The car is doing the same thing with 2 different carbs.
But at sitting it revs with no issues just seems to be around the 3k mark when the motor is really starting to pull itself.
If i drive it like gramma it runs fine if i drive it like i stole it well i could only hope the cops car exploded cuz i aint getting away
Does the "bla" part of blahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh mean you have a momentary sag in accel. as the air valve opens? (the usual meaning of a bog, a momentary drop off in power).
It may seem wierd that it seemed to go away for 2 days, but if the air valve tension is 'right on the edge', the bog can appear under some circumstances and not others. I suspect you need to tighten the air valve spring a tenth of a turn tighter - bog is variable if you are on the edge.
Why do 2 carbs demonstrate the same symptom? I will guess that the brass tubes that feed the transition holes for the air valve's opening have fallen out into their wells. This is a very common problem and both carbs may have it. So why would the Olds carb owner not have the problem? I speculate there is a substantial difference in weight and gearing between the cars (and rates of accel.) and it just didn't manifest on the Olds.
my 2c. Pull the air horn off and check that the tubes are still attached to it. Also check that there is some light weight grease on tthe spring.
Last edited by Rich's'78; Jul 20, 2010 at 11:00 AM.
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i took it for a run with the secondaries locked out and still had the issue
took the fuel line off cranked the motor the fuel pump seems to be pumping fine. but could it be losing its edge at higher RPM's or maybe a section of rubber hose getting sucked closed.
as for the olds. Q-jet it was a fresh rebuild with a kit from cliff's and that was its first time it saw fuel was on my car. had to do the air/fuel mixture and all to get it to run on the car.
I'll try this anyway but in most case if the module goes they just done run period right. or get to hot then just crap out completely or am i wrong on this.
Last edited by elke_10; Jul 20, 2010 at 04:46 PM.
with gerry72......as soon as I read in your post it happens at higher RPM I thought "HEI module". Stock modules are well known to not deliver the best quality of spark at higher RPM's
Good luck and please let us know if that works.
haven't got to drive it yet its raining but it changed alot of things
I'll try this anyway but in most case if the module goes they just done run period right. or get to hot then just crap out completely or am i wrong on this.
Will
there's no cracks in the dizzy cover i changed the module, tested the coil with a ohm meter but that could change due to heat i guess so gonna change that after coil change i will basiclly have a new dizzy.
Open to more suggestions!
This is really starting to be a thorn in my side.


Why am i gettign that sinking feeling i would of been better of just buying a cheapo blueprinted from summit.
Last edited by elke_10; Jul 22, 2010 at 12:28 AM.



















