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pulling engine without pulling transmission

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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 02:07 AM
  #1  
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Default pulling engine without pulling transmission

How hard is it to pull the engine, without pulling the manual transmission, on a big block corvette? I already have the radiator removed, and all accessories off. Is it easy to do (and to put it back in again)? or should I go ahead and remove the transmission with the engine?

Anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks,

John.
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 02:20 AM
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Default Re: pulling engine without pulling transmission (john73bb)

I am not an expert, but, I think it is easier to remove the engine without the transmission. I have done this only once and it wasn't that bad. I have also removed the transmission several times and their are only a 6 or 7 of bolts holding it the tranny to the engine. Good luck
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 10:25 AM
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Default Re: pulling engine without pulling transmission (Maurice)

Thanks,

I guess my biggest concern is aligning the clutch shaft through the clutch and into the engine when re-installing the engine. Is it difficult? I have done it wit an auto transmission before, but not a manual. Any tricks?
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 10:35 AM
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Default Re: pulling engine without pulling transmission (john73bb)

Since it is a manual, I am not sure I wouldn't go on and remove them both as a single unit. If this is something you absolutely don't want to do, just use an alignment tool when reinstalling the clutch/pressure plate assembly. This will insure you have everything aligned before you start dropping the engine back in. The major difference here is that when doing this with an automatic, the engine can be dropped straight down into position onto the mounts. But with a manual, the engine has to be dropped, slid back onto the input shaft of trans, then down onto the mounts. This increases the difficulty. Again, I would do the engine/trans as a single unit.

Just my .02.

dl
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 11:15 AM
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Default Re: pulling engine without pulling transmission (john73bb)

I can't say how hard it is to pull the engine without the transmission, because I have only pulled and installed engines with the transmission attached. One of the biggest hurdles is that you have to pull the engine off of the input shaft and there just isn't enough room in the engine bay to do that easily. Most of the folks who do this kind of thing for a living seem to indicate that pulling the two together is the way to go.
Gary
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 11:20 AM
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Default Re: pulling engine without pulling transmission (GaryS)

I have the radiator out, and the AC condensor loose (had to take out the cam). I was trying to avoid removing the shift linkage because I remember what a royal pain in the tail it was putting it in.

I don't intend to remove the clutch, I just need to bolt on the heads and intake manifold, and finnish building my serpentine system, and degree my new cam, then it goes back in and I put on the exhaust manifolds and start burning tires.

So, 1 vote for and two against. Any others want to chime in?
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 11:27 AM
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Default Re: pulling engine without pulling transmission (GaryS)

I have a '68 BB with a manual tranny. I have pulled the engine several times and have never pulled the tranny with it. To pull the two together it is my understanding that you must remove the radiator support. Regarding re-installing the engine, I have never had a problem, I just used a clutch alignment tool before tightening up the pressure plate bolts.
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 11:28 AM
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Default Re: pulling engine without pulling transmission (john73bb)

If your talking about removing the engine and leaving tranny in place, then installing engine while trying to mate it to the tranny. Thats the hardest way.
Take them out as 1 unit. I think your biggest PIA is going to be the non-removable tranny crossmember.
Scott
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 11:59 AM
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Default Re: pulling engine without pulling transmission (BB68Vett)

To pull the two together it is my understanding that you must remove the radiator support.
That would be a function of how high you have the car raised up on jackstands. If you have it high enough for the trans tail to drop toward the ground, you can tilt the engine/trans up enough to miss the support. If the car is sitting on the ground, you will need more room in the front of the engine to move it forward in order to tilt.

As for the linkage, you should be able to leave the shift arms on the trans and disconnect the rods. If you do that, there should be minimal adjustment required during reinstall.

dl


[Modified by dladd74roadster, 10:01 AM 3/25/2002]
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 01:22 PM
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Default Re: pulling engine without pulling transmission (john73bb)

I have Pulled mine with and without the transmission. Getting the motor out is easy. Getting it back in and hooked up to the transmission is almost impossible.
I would pull them as a unit or pull the engine and turn the trans on its side and slide it back as far as it will go so you can get the motor back in. The BB leaves no room to spare.
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 01:55 PM
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Default Re: pulling engine without pulling transmission (john73bb)

Jeff73454 hit it on the head. Pulling the engine without the manual trans and trying to realign the O.P shaft would be a nightmare. Strongly suggest to pull all as one unit and reinstall all as one unit or drop the trans and then pull the motor. Realigned a manual to clutch and flywheel is not hard at all with the pilot tool.
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 03:26 PM
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Default Re: pulling engine without pulling transmission (john73bb)

" I just need to bolt on the heads and intake manifold, and finnish building my serpentine system, and degree my new cam "

- You don't NEED to pull the engine to do any of these task ...
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Old Mar 25, 2002 | 05:43 PM
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Default Re: pulling engine without pulling transmission (sray454)

I did put the heads on once before without pulling the engine, but there is one bolt, that is almost impossible to get to, and you can't get an accurate torque on it because you can't put a torque wrench directly on it. So, you have to use a u-joint or something. Also, to degree the camshaft, you have to use a degree wheel, which I think is bigger than the harmonic balancer which means it will not fit because of the crossmember. I would like to accurately degree the camshaft, but maybe I won't.

Is there any other way to torque that rear head bolt on the driver's side?
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