Rear Bearing Tools
I mark the position for starting point on rotational tests. On the spindle bearings you could use an old spindle like Barry said but it might be more clumbersome to use. The flange could be used for a handle to move it up/down but you may be better off buying or making one. If you have access to a lathe then turn a shaft down to the spindle dimensions and polish it so the bearings slide on.
It should be a LOT cheaper to make then the $100 or so I see advertised all over.
As Tom said, unless the surface is ground smooth on a surface grinder you'll have variations through 360* again that's why I mark the position and go back to it. I checked the setup tool I have and it had .002" runout on the end.
Keep asking questions here and you should do fine.
Now, if someone can post the picture for me let me know and I'll email it to you so all can see. :cool:
Gary
[Modified by gtr1999, 1:50 PM 3/26/2002]
I'm closer to Minneapolis but my sister-in-law is from Cedarburg. She hasn't been there for about 25 years though. I'm really getting a lot of good info from this discussion. Thanks to all who replied.
Just a couple small things left and I'm good to go - yeehaw!
Are you done with your rear end project? It must be starting to get nice there now.
I wish I was done :crazy: The 72's differential is still apart on a cart,all cleaned and painted. I started to grind and polish the posi carrier tonight after work. I'm grinding all the edges to a radius and deciding how to setup the posi; like stock in the manual or like Tom's without the clutch springs :yesnod:
Right in the middle of this the 69 went down with a blown Ujoint that's going to develope into a full rear suspension rebuild at this point :smash:
As for the weather it got colder when spring arrived last week:lol:
That's life,what are you going to do :jester
Take care,
Gary
[Modified by gtr1999, 9:26 PM 3/26/2002]
And is not what Gary and I are referring to.
I don't think you are understanding what I was doing with the spindle.
Let me explain...............
The spindle is secured in a vertical position, (flange down), with the flange secured to a solid object. In this case a bench vise.
Then the outer bearing is placed on the spindle. Add the spacer and shim. The spindle support (with races installed) are placed on next. Then add the inner bearing. Secure with the spindle nut. (Spacer/washers needed)
Dial guage is secured to the spindle flange. Measurement is taken from the spindle support mounting flange. (You lift/pry the spindle support assembly to get the measurement).
It does the same job as your jig, only in reverse. Easy to construct.
I don't see why this would not work as well.
Please let me know if I am missing something here, as I now am driving on the results of this method.
Thanks
Barry
[Modified by Barry's70LT1, 11:50 PM 3/26/2002]
[Modified by Barry's70LT1, 11:41 AM 3/27/2002]
Turned down spindles have been around for a long time.... and not just for use as a tool.
I turned down the spindles on my own C2 in 1975. Have not had any problems with them.
Anyway- yes.. now I understand what you were getting at.
There are many ways to "skin a cat" as they say. As long as you get an accurate reproduceable dial gage reading
and keep it below .002, you are good to go.
From what you described, it certainly looks like you have a good way to set up the bearings... I would say
you're all set.
For those who don't have a spare spindle lying around, a short length of 2x6 and $3.00 worth of small hardware can be used
to build a jig.
Tom
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