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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 08:38 PM
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Default A/C info help

I bit the bullet last Friday and had the A/C rebuilt on my 82. $1300 dollars later the air sucks. Everything was replaced except the evaporator and the system was kept R12. The lowest temperature I can get with a probe inside the center console vent has been 47 degrees and that was driving to work on a cool morning. With the car pulled in my garage and the ambient garage temperature at 86, car idling at 900 rpm the lowest temperature I could record in the vent was 62. That was with a water hose misting the condenser. Just to make sure the hot water valve to the heater was not leaking I clamped off the hose, no change. One thing odd I did note was the compressor (AC Delco) was making a bit of a tinny rattling sound when I had the water on the condenser.

The point of this is the shop seems to want to argue that this may be the best the system can do but they said they will take a second look at it. I am looking for a GM document that tells what the air temperature should be under certain conditions to show these guys. The troubleshooting chart in my GM shop manual references a performance chart but I could only find a chart referencing pressures, not temperatures.

Any help in finding something that will help me force the point to these guys tomorrow afternoon, if needed, would be much appreciated.

Thank you,
Andy
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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Man..... Did these guys stutter when they told you the cost was $1300? I think your temp door may not be fully closing. And your evap should be checked for debris build up.
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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Is this the info you need?
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 09:13 PM
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The quote was $900-$1000, I am sure I was the one with the stupid look on my face when they handed me the bill. For that money they can check doors and clean the evaporator.
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 09:17 PM
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That is it, thank you petes74ttop!

Thank you

But I did expect the temp on the chart to be lower, what happened to these 35 degree claims I have seen?

Last edited by AT-82Collectors; Aug 3, 2010 at 09:34 PM. Reason: addition
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by AT-82Collectors
That is it, thank you petes74ttop!

Thank you

But I did expect the temp on the chart to be lower, what happened to these 35 degree claims I have seen?
Don't think I have ever seen an 82 that will do anywhere near 35 degrees. 50-60 is probably the best you are going to do in 100 deg. weather.
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Old Aug 3, 2010 | 11:46 PM
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I have an 82. MY a/c was just recently serviced with r134a with original compressor and everything else. (no new parts) My temp inside garage (95 degrees) was 52. Hope that helps. BTW $1300.00 including labor for a complete system seems about what I was quoted here in TX.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 07:23 AM
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I guess the temp is closer to correct than I thought it was. Thanks everyone for the information.

Andy
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by AT-82Collectors
That is it, thank you petes74ttop!

Thank you

But I did expect the temp on the chart to be lower, what happened to these 35 degree claims I have seen?
You can get temps in the mid 30's from almost any car if you close up the car, set to max, in the shade for 1/2 hour.
Too many variables, driving down the road in 95 temps, in hot sunshine same cars will get 50, added heatload makes all the difference.

If people are happy with their a/c, some tend to stretch a little too.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by dhaile
I have an 82. MY a/c was just recently serviced with r134a with original compressor and everything else. (no new parts) My temp inside garage (95 degrees) was 52. Hope that helps. BTW $1300.00 including labor for a complete system seems about what I was quoted here in TX.
Wow, I just replaced alomost every part on mine, Compressor 150$, condenser 20$, new lines 100$, will have it vacuum pulled and filled with R134 for 100 bucks. Is labor that high for AC service? WOW glad I did it myself!
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 10:42 AM
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Your performance doesn't seem to be out of line. Observe your compressor belt. If it's fluttering, it's too loose. You won't get as good of performance at idle as you would get at 2,000 rpm or while driving. A lot of C3 complaints about high vent temps are a result of hot air passing through the vents along with the A/C air. Make sure the temp door in the distribution box is fully closed and the seals are in place. Make sure the temp slide lever is FULLY to the left on cold and stays there. Even a very slight movement of this slide lever off of full cold will allow the hot water shut off valve to open. Remove the vacuum hose from the shut off valve and attach a vacuum guage. Then, move the lever all the way to the left. You should have vacuum. If after a while the lever moves on it's own and the vacuum goes way down or goes to zero the shut off valve will open allowing hot water into the heater core.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 11:34 PM
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For that money, you should have converted it to R134a. Now, you still have to find R12 whenever you need a refill.

At least, it sounds like they've got it working again.
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Old Aug 4, 2010 | 11:53 PM
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I paid $900 for my HOME A/C unit!

I have removed ALL my A/C OEM stuff in preparation for a Vintage Air unit............and yes, it's gonna be about $1000!
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Old Aug 5, 2010 | 01:44 PM
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A vintage air kit is around 1,200 with all new parts and its not vaccum operated.All electric.Thats not installed just the kit.Im going to put mine in myself.I dont know any place I trust that much.
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