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I cannot close my windows Neither window will close, so it is not the either switch or the motors.
I found the power window circuit in my manual (and it is also here http://willcoxcorvette.com/instructi...indow_sche.JPG ) and see there is a 10A fuse that is also shared with the gauges, and since the gauges work, it is not this fuse. There is also a 30 amp circuit breaker that is supposed to be on the fuse block, but I am not sure what to look for, any hints to find this.
The only other thing that is shared by both windows is the power window relay, but I don't know where that is either. Can anybody describe where the relay is?
Your 71 won't have a circuit breaker in the fuse box .
I common thing that happens is the IGN tap for the relay gets kicked out. Look for a 12 tan wire or a pink/black tracer.
Relay is in the console.
The circuit breaker for P/W on a '71 is a silver-cased rectangle [with rounded corners] mounted to the driver's side of the firewall. It has two heavy [power] wires going to it. You can't reset it; you have to replace it. But you can check it by disconnecting the battery, then removing one of the leads on the breaker and using an ohmmeter to check for continuity. A good breaker will check at '0' ohms (or very close to it); a bad breaker will have infinite resistance (or read OVERLOAD on a digital meter). If the breaker is good, I would suspect the P/W relay to be bad.
The circuit breaker checked out fine. After checking the breaker, I tried the window and it moved about an inch then stopped, so I don't think it's a loose wire. Hopefully it is just the relay.
What is the difficulty in removing the console? I see 4 screws holding in the panel to the tunnel. With an automatic, do I just unscrew the push button and shifter ball then pull the console?
Last edited by Rich_71Vette; Aug 8, 2010 at 12:05 PM.
Rich , did you look for the 12 tan wire hanging out around the fuse box ?
Its very common for a big foot to have pulled it out of the fuse box.
Look for the IGN tap hole in the fuse box , 2 rows up in the center, there should be a 12 tan plugged in there.
The 12 tan trips the window relay when the key is turned on so the windows will work.
Yes I checked the wire. It was in place, but I pulled it out then reset it just in case. I just updated my last post to add that after checking it out, the window worked for about an inch then stopped.
To remove lower console shift panel: Disconnect battery; put trans in 'neutral'; unscrew shifter release button; remove spring; unscrew shift ball; remove (4) panel screws; use small flat-blade screwdriver to stick under metal panel at front edge, then pry gently to get loose (do not try to remove panel yet); repeat last step at each corner of panel to get it all free; get back end of panel by fingers of one hand and front end with other hand, then lift and slide back/forth to dislodge panel; lift enough to disconnect lighter power wire and unclip lighter light socket;be careful not to damage any optic fiber lines or hardware; disconnect any electrical and/or fiber-optic items needing to be removed; lift panel off of console.
Now you can get to the relay. My suggestion is to remove it, then remove the cover and check to see what is wrong with it. You may be able to clean the contacts and reuse it...but make sure that the relay functions properly before doing so. If contacts are burnt or worn off or if 12v doesn't energize it firmly, replace it.
The relay is grounded to the instrument panel.
I was able to replace mine without removing the console, just the shifter plate. it's screwed to the center section support with a sheet metal screw. I used a right angle screw driver set I purchased from the dollar store for $3.00. It accepts sockets. You could also use a flex drive and take the screw out.
Wilcox has a great diagram of the relay for testing.