Power Steering Cylinder leaking
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 710
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From: Raynham MA
Power Steering Cylinder leaking
I went under for 76 L-82 and noticed the PS cylinder is leaking. I wiped things down and took for a drive then checked again to make sure that is where the leak is coming from. I recently added somoe Lucas PS stop leak and will see if that helps. If not, do you think I should just swap out the cylinder or does it make more sense to replace everything with the whole PS replacement kit? Think that's about $400.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 165
Likes: 1
From: Stanley NC
I have on my 81 vette the control valve leaking and replaced that along with the cylinder since all had to come apart anyway so that fixed my leak. Had tried the No-Leak product before, helped a little but never did stop it.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Raynham MA
I noticed today that the leak is dripping from the PS cylinder as well as the hoses. So maybe it's not just a cylinder problem. I don;t see how a leak from the PS cylinder could be dripping on the hoses since they are a distance away and maybe even higher.
Did you buy the whole kit? I know they make a new one (~$400) and a rebuilt one for about half. Maybe the whole kit makes sense since I'm under there. Have it be all new.
Any thoughts on that?
Did you buy the whole kit? I know they make a new one (~$400) and a rebuilt one for about half. Maybe the whole kit makes sense since I'm under there. Have it be all new.
Any thoughts on that?
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,368
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From: Colorado
I just went through a control valve leak and as it turns out I have a very small weeper from my cylinder also. I rebuilt the valve myself and plan on rebuilding the cylinder also. Seals kits for the cylinder are ~24.00 which are far less than even a rebuilt unit. I would highly suggest doing some searches for rebuilding, you will save money for sure.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 165
Likes: 1
From: Stanley NC
I brought all new parts, control valve, cylinder and hoses so not to have future problems, was a little over $400 for parts. Rebuilt ones with core charges, and only get core charge back if one parts are re-buildable can cost more than new parts.......unless you can get he core charge. So I took that route and no leaks now.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
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From: Crossville TN
I rebuilt and refurbished my system with new hoses, seal kits for pump and cylinder, and rebuild kit for control valve. Cleaned them all up, repainted everything and the total cost was around $120 (including the cost of the paint). In the process, I learned all about the P/S system and how it worked. DIY was the way to go for me....it may not be for you.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,368
Likes: 9
From: Colorado
If you are looking at buying a cylinder or a kit, that kind of looks like you would install it? Hoses are kind of a no brainer but I have to say getting the fittings to thread can be a real bugger at times, (for me anyway). Redoing the control valve took me all of 45 minutes and I am slow. It took longer to just clean it up and get it ready for the new seals. As far as the cylinder goes, I don't see how it could take more than 45 for that either. This doesn't include removing or reinstalling those parts, but if you were to install new or re-manufactured parts the time needed is the same. Point being that for an hour or so of real time you can rebuild your own parts, save money, learn a lot and hopefully reduce the number of fluids on your garage floor
I swear one of my goals is to have a spot free garage floor!
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Raynham MA
So where did you guys find the instructions on how to rebuild the control valve and cylinder? Sounds like that may e the best way to go (saving $$) but I don't know how to go about rebuilding them. I just recently ordered a couple corvette repair manuals. I wonder if they explain this rebuild process?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Raynham MA
Just looked on Ecklers. I see a rebuilt PS control valve and cylinder kit there. Each are $19.99. Looks like one has instructions on the site, the other doesnt but I assume it comes with it. Would that be all I need?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
These links to three papers should give you all the information that you will need.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...-Rev28JA06.doc
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...rhaulInstr.doc
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ealPackage.doc
Jim
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...-Rev28JA06.doc
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...rhaulInstr.doc
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ealPackage.doc
Jim
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Raynham MA
Awesome, thanks.
So it's probably safe to say the hoses are fine unless I see a lot of wear or damage?
Also, I noticed there is a contrrol valve seal and a control valve stud rebuild kit. I'm guess I just need the seal kit but how would I know for sure?
So it's probably safe to say the hoses are fine unless I see a lot of wear or damage?
Also, I noticed there is a contrrol valve seal and a control valve stud rebuild kit. I'm guess I just need the seal kit but how would I know for sure?
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Jim Shea's papers are invaluable for doing this kind of work. In the kits, you get a cross-section or exploded view of the part. Jim provides much more info and detail with his papers. Download them and read them through [several times] while you are waiting for the rebuild kits to come in the mail. If you are at all handy with tools, this is a "no brainer"; not difficult work and you can get your hands [face, arms, clothes] dirty at the same time. 
Thanks, Jim...for all your work.
Thanks, Jim...for all your work.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 113
From: Saginaw Michigan
The stud kit has nothing to do with fluid. If you have any up and down or side to side play in the stud you should replace it. If the seal is cracked or torn you should replace it. Otherwise, I would leave it alone.
You might look closely at the chrome rod. If it has any deep scratches or it looks particularly worn in the section of the rod that would be under the seal when driving straight ahead you might consider replacing the whole unit. You cannot replace just the rod itself (or the piston inside the cylinder). Scratches or rough areas on the rod will quickly wear out a brand new seal if the rod isn't in good shape.
Jim
You might look closely at the chrome rod. If it has any deep scratches or it looks particularly worn in the section of the rod that would be under the seal when driving straight ahead you might consider replacing the whole unit. You cannot replace just the rod itself (or the piston inside the cylinder). Scratches or rough areas on the rod will quickly wear out a brand new seal if the rod isn't in good shape.
Jim
Last edited by Jim Shea; Aug 10, 2010 at 02:31 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Raynham MA
OK. Guess what I really need to do is find out exactly where its leaking from before I make any decisions. I'll check that out first. All I know right now is PS fliud is dripping from the hoses and PS cylinder. When I looked at the level of the PS fluid it was almost empty.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
Why is the fluid "red"? Is it Dexron? Dexron is "acceptable" for use in a power steering system, but it's not the best thing for it. From the photos, I don't see any significant damage on the cylinder ram surface. I think the seal rebuild kit and the ball-stud rebuild kit would be the right thing for that unit.
