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I have swap my small block for a 396/375HP 1969 Chevelle engine, solid lift cam [stock]. My 69 vette is a automatic with the stock torque converter. My problem is getting it to idle in gear, I have tried both manifold vacuum and Port vacuum and still the idle is not reliable. I assume I may need a higher stall speed torque converter. This is a street car, so any input would be appreciated . The trans in my 69 is stock. thanks
In time it will die at idle. Stock converter is for my 350, not a 396 with a lot of cam. I have heard that a higher stall converter may be required because of the cam, just trying to find out if anyone has change to a different one that help the idle problem.
Higher stall will help..but I think you can get there with tune.
What carb is on it? How much initial timing/total timing? What vacuum can on dist.? How much vacuum is it holding?
Higher stall will help..but I think you can get there with tune.
What carb is on it? How much initial timing/total timing? What vacuum can on dist.? How much vacuum is it holding?
JIM
750 Holley,8deg.,22deg total, vacuum at idle is 12".
In idle, all convertors are the same. The only thing changing is the stall speed. Therefore, I agree with 427hotrod, it's probably a timing/carb issue.
375HP 396 had loose torque convertor from the factory. Your convertor is probably too tight for this application. You need a 11" convertor at least to allow proper stall for this big cammed motor. The THM400 had a 6 bolt high performance convertor and special high RPM shift points programmed into transmission with special centifugal weights/springs in the govenor and different vacuum modulator settings. This trans was used in LS-6/L-88/ZL-1/427 435HP Vettes and 350 LT-1 Z28 Camaros.
If this motor is an original 375HP 396, you should try to sell it on Ebay with correct castings/parts this motor is worth some serious $$$ even in this market.
Last edited by Solid LT1; Aug 15, 2010 at 02:05 PM.
750 Holley,8deg.,22deg total, vacuum at idle is 12".
I assume 22 is your total with your initial? If so, you are only getting 14* total advance. Set your initial timing to 14 deg. w/the vacuum canister disconnected. That will give you 28 total; but you need 36*. Most of these engines run best with 12-16* initial timing. Make sure your vacuum advance is working too. Lars has a good paper on setting up distributors if you are interested you should look it/him up.
PS - IF, like lt1 states, this is an L78 396; I sold the one I had on Feebay for $4500 five years ago.
Last edited by Ben Lurkin; Aug 15, 2010 at 02:29 PM.
Definitely add some serious initial timing. I'd have it at 18*- 20* at least with the total restricted to 36-38* or so (all without vacuum). Then add in some vacuum advance to help a little more.
The L78 cam wasn't that radical. It's basically an LT-1 type intake lobe and a wide LSA...so no biggee.
While I do agree it would definitely get the little motor with big heads moving a lot better with a looser converter.
As mentioned...if it's got all the right hard pieces they are worth $$ especially if you find the guy that needs his original motor back. Does it still have a VIN stamped on the pad?
Years ago I bought a '73 Lemans GT with a factory bench seat and 4 speed just because the guy had blown the original Poncho 350 and had stuck an L-78 in it. I pulled the motor and dropped it in a Pro Street (actually X- record holding race car) '68 SS396 Nova with an L-88 cam and a Tunnel ram. Sucker ran mid 10's!
If i`m not mistaken the L78 camshaft is the same cam as the L72 cam. You need a higher stall converter to help get a steady idle with some more initial lead. And these are just the basics..with out a converter you will constantly giving it gas and holding the brake at the same time.
Thanks for the advice, I do not know why I did not think to sell the motor, just sold off a '69 DZ 302 block. Your on target with the issues with the torque converter, i have tried every setting I could to get idle in gear. thanks.