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U-Joints not fitting 100%????????

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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 08:44 PM
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Default U-Joints not fitting 100%????????

So for the most part the U joint install has been going okay. Most of them seem to be going on quite well. The brand is the Neapco Brute Force which I read on here is an up and coming good brand next to Spicer which i couldn't get locally...

The joint that attaches to the hub piece on one side is off by such a small margin I'm unsure of what to do. I know there isn't anything inside the bearing causing it to get stopped up as I've checked. It isn't just this U-joint either as i've tried another and same thing.

My only thought is that the ear is bent just a fraction somehow? What are my options? I was thinking worse case is i have to buy a new piece
I could grind down the pin a bit and it'll fit in the ridge then....
The other ones are pretty tight too. When i get both pins in place the joint doesn't move as freely as I would think it needs to....


progress so far.
BEFORE


AFTER

Last edited by PUNISHER VETTE; Aug 20, 2010 at 06:26 PM.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 09:30 PM
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In your first picture, the cap is not pushed far enough into the hole. Just push it in a fraction farther and the clip will pop into place when you relieve the pressure. The clip on the other side will bulge just a little bit, but once both are in their grooves, you can do the same tweak on the other side to get them even.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 09:45 PM
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What he said,
How did you do your "outer" ones( ones nearest to trailing arms)?
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by larrywalk
In your first picture, the cap is not pushed far enough into the hole. Just push it in a fraction farther and the clip will pop into place when you relieve the pressure. The clip on the other side will bulge just a little bit, but once both are in their grooves, you can do the same tweak on the other side to get them even.
That's as far as it'll go....trust me. With that big C clamp and my IR impact wrench i'm afraid i'll brake something if i tighten it down too far.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 09:59 PM
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Remove one clip and push in that cup until you can fully seat the clip. Push on other cup until clip center points lift off cup slightly on previously installed clip. You should then be able to install second clip. Equalize clips on both sides so both are slightly raised at ends. mike...

If joint is too tight to turn with thumb and two fingers, whack yolk, with cup pointed down, firmly on a piece of 4x4 wood block, alternate ends until joint loosens up. This is how I was taught to do it. Good luck.

Last edited by mds3013; Aug 17, 2010 at 10:06 PM.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Father N Son
What he said,
How did you do your "outer" ones( ones nearest to trailing arms)?
I just read your post and saw others while doing research had problems with the outers and i'm unsure what all the fuss is about?

I did the outers just like the inners. Used a large tie rod C-clamp(can be rented at any auto parts store) And just pushed it out.

Maybe that's why things aren't fitting right now that i'm reinstalling them?
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 10:13 PM
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Your yoke is bent inwards, most likely caused when removing the old units. Tapping the yoke with a brass hammer while trying to convince it to be wider might make the u-joint move more freely and let your clips seat better..
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by PUNISHER VETTE

The joint that attaches to the hub piece on one side is off by such a small margin.
The part you call the joint, if you mean the flange (the small parts on the left in pic #2) they may be bent. See if the surface is still square.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 10:31 PM
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Flanges bent a bit when you pressed out the 'locked-up' joints. The 'pros' have a dummy plate that bolts up to the flange to keep them in proper shape while pressing joints out. Not sure what to do once they are bent. If you don't get them straightened, they will cause the joint bearings to be in a bind 100% of the time.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 11:11 PM
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My only explanation is that they're bent, even though the old joints weren't really that hard to get out. Or I guess maybe the new U joints aren't the same size exactly as they need to be(even though i tried 2.... )?

I wonder what would be a easy way to slightly bend them back, if i fail then i know for sure i'll need a replacement...

Last edited by PUNISHER VETTE; Aug 17, 2010 at 11:15 PM.
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 11:44 PM
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I know you have rebuilt your wheel bearings. You can remove one of your companion flanges from your trailing arms and bolt it to the u-joint flange to use as a support. It should be straight and will pull flange straight to help get u-joint in place. Hope this idea helps. mike...


Last edited by mds3013; Aug 17, 2010 at 11:54 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Father N Son
What he said,
How did you do your "outer" ones( ones nearest to trailing arms)?
See what we are talking about in the other thread?
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mds3013
I know you have rebuilt your wheel bearings. You can remove one of your companion flanges from your trailing arms and bolt it to the u-joint flange to use as a support. It should be straight and will pull flange straight to help get u-joint in place. Hope this idea helps. mike...

That's a good idea. I can see where if i take off that companion flange from the trailing arm and bolt them together maybe it'll help pull the ears apart a bit.. If anything i'll help support while I push the ears apart some.
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
:If you don't get them straightened, they will cause the joint bearings to be in a bind 100% of the time.
They'll straighten out after being bolted back in place, relieving the bind. But it does make installation more difficult.
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 06:31 PM
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Got things all worked out. Took me a few minutes to see what i had available to try and push the ears apart slightly.

Came up with two bolts and some washers and it worked like a charm. Just had one bolt/washer combo stationary and another one pushing against it with slack allowing it to spread in the middle.


Got everything put back together as well. My exhaust greatly interferes with my strut rod adjusting bolt and will most likely wear the header wrap i put on there but when I get a new exhaust it'll fix that!
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