76 Vette Setup for Street/Strip
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 680
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From: Denham Springs LA
76 Vette Setup for Street/Strip
I have a 76 vette I want to setup as a street/strip car. I have low 12's to high 11's as my goal. No plans to put a roll cage in the car.
Right now I am trying to decide what engine to build. I am going to use the automatic 350 transmission. The rear end has 308 gears right now but I plan to replace them with either 355 or 373. Any thoughts?
How much hp and torque will the engine realistically need to produce?
What cubic inch should I shoot for to make the hp the easiest/least expensive? I want to stay with a small block. I was thinking 475hp at the flywheel and was thinking either 383 or 406 cu in. Just read that 396 might be a better choice.
Don't want to run nitrous, blower, or turbo.
Money is an issue so i'm trying to be smart about it.
Roger
Right now I am trying to decide what engine to build. I am going to use the automatic 350 transmission. The rear end has 308 gears right now but I plan to replace them with either 355 or 373. Any thoughts?
How much hp and torque will the engine realistically need to produce?
What cubic inch should I shoot for to make the hp the easiest/least expensive? I want to stay with a small block. I was thinking 475hp at the flywheel and was thinking either 383 or 406 cu in. Just read that 396 might be a better choice.
Don't want to run nitrous, blower, or turbo.
Money is an issue so i'm trying to be smart about it.
Roger
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
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From: League City Tx
See my response to you over on 99 Black Birds thread. Mid 11s no problem with a GOOD 383-406.
Power is in the heads/cam. Don't spare expense on the heads/cam. That's the difference in a 400hp 383 and a 550hp 383.
Power is in the heads/cam. Don't spare expense on the heads/cam. That's the difference in a 400hp 383 and a 550hp 383.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
It really all depends on your budget. You "can" use a stock 350 4 bolt block and use a 3.75 or 3.875 crank, then bore it .030 or .060 if the block passes a mag/sonic test and is thick enough.
If you were not on a tight budget I would get the Dart SHP block. It's a much better platform, has more clearance and can take a bigger over bore. Then I would use a 4.00" crank and make either a 408" or 427". That is my preference but for goals of mid 11s...that is WAY over kill.
A nice built 383 will go mid 11s pretty easy and be much cheaper over all.
If you were not on a tight budget I would get the Dart SHP block. It's a much better platform, has more clearance and can take a bigger over bore. Then I would use a 4.00" crank and make either a 408" or 427". That is my preference but for goals of mid 11s...that is WAY over kill.
A nice built 383 will go mid 11s pretty easy and be much cheaper over all.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 680
Likes: 5
From: Denham Springs LA
I'm trying to keep my engine cost below 4k if possible.
I went to our local drag strip a couple weeks ago. 383's were pretty popular. There are a few 383 engines for sale in my area so cost wise buying a block should be cheap.
Sorry for any stupid questions. I see a small block 400 engine, 4-bolt main out of a 4x4 truck for only $350 in my local paper. Will this engine bolt up the same as a 350 (motor mounts, bell housing, etc).
Thanks
Roger
Are you familiar with the
I went to our local drag strip a couple weeks ago. 383's were pretty popular. There are a few 383 engines for sale in my area so cost wise buying a block should be cheap.
Sorry for any stupid questions. I see a small block 400 engine, 4-bolt main out of a 4x4 truck for only $350 in my local paper. Will this engine bolt up the same as a 350 (motor mounts, bell housing, etc).
Thanks
Roger
Are you familiar with the
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
I'm trying to keep my engine cost below 4k if possible.
I went to our local drag strip a couple weeks ago. 383's were pretty popular. There are a few 383 engines for sale in my area so cost wise buying a block should be cheap.
Sorry for any stupid questions. I see a small block 400 engine, 4-bolt main out of a 4x4 truck for only $350 in my local paper. Will this engine bolt up the same as a 350 (motor mounts, bell housing, etc).
Thanks
Roger
Are you familiar with the
I went to our local drag strip a couple weeks ago. 383's were pretty popular. There are a few 383 engines for sale in my area so cost wise buying a block should be cheap.
Sorry for any stupid questions. I see a small block 400 engine, 4-bolt main out of a 4x4 truck for only $350 in my local paper. Will this engine bolt up the same as a 350 (motor mounts, bell housing, etc).
Thanks
Roger
Are you familiar with the
Honestly....$4k is not a sufficient budget to build a good 383... Can it be done?? SURE....but you are talking about putting the cheapest parts in it, hopefully getting a steal of a deal on machine work and that is not leaving much for the heads and cam...this is all assuming you can correctly build it yourself. With the parts involved, it will not likely make the power you want....sure it would likely be enough for low 12s but....
If you have a lead on a good running stock 400", that might be your best option. Bore it, put good forged pistons in it, use the stock rods(resized with arp bolts) and machine the stock crank then have it all balanced. You could probably do the short block for $1k + the cost of the engine. Spend the next $1500 on heads, figure out what valve train setup you can afford...probably a solid flat tappet setup with good roller rockers cause your gonna spin it up to get the power. Good intake/carb setup and ofcourse headers and 2.5" exhaust.
That would probably get you low 12s, high 11s if it's tunes right and the converter is loose enough.
I did a similar build to this back in 95', only I was using a Pontiac 400"....I eventually got 11.90s@109 out of it. I had less then $4k in that motor...I figured it was around 425hp or so at the crank.
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From: Corsicana, Tx
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Allan is dead on the money. *IF* you can get a decent rebuildable 400 for $350 I'd jump on it. Do a good basic rebuild on it with the forged pistons as mentioned. The 400 rods ar shorter than normal, but will work. But if you intend to spend a nickle on them rebuilding them or adding better rod bolts (recommended) get a new set of longer aftermarket ones...even budget ones. The GM 400" crank is stout...so you should be good there.
Get GOOD heads and don't go too small. I'm talking 200+cc range. Then see how much $ is left for valvetrain and induction/exhaust.
If you keep yours eyes open and find folks you can trust, you can often find good deals on heads and intakes as people step up to new stuff. The Forum here is a good source also.
JIM
Get GOOD heads and don't go too small. I'm talking 200+cc range. Then see how much $ is left for valvetrain and induction/exhaust.
If you keep yours eyes open and find folks you can trust, you can often find good deals on heads and intakes as people step up to new stuff. The Forum here is a good source also.
JIM
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 680
Likes: 5
From: Denham Springs LA
don't forget about the rest of your drivetrain. if you want high 11's your gonna need to beef up everything.
AND..............doesn't 11s require a roll bar/cage?
My only reason for wanting to run lower than a 12 is so I don't get beat by the newest Camaros, Mustangs, and Vettes that are totally stock.