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I started a thread about a week ago about changing intake gaskets. I did this on my '78 Z28 and after I finished changing the gaskets, I waited till the nest day to try to turn it on. So, I woke up the next day and when I tried to start the car it just turned over, but didn't turn on. I checked the fuel lines and they are dry(both lines coming from the tank and pump to card). I was out there all day trying to solve this problem. What can be the problem? I cranked it over a couple of times for a couple of seconds and the lines were still dry.
Last edited by jordan89; Aug 21, 2010 at 05:38 PM.
Man I hope it's not the pump. I really don't feel like changing that. It was working perfectly before I changed the intake gaskets. I should have just left it the way it was.
also feed the carb a few shots of gas down its throat and let it idle that off and it will eventually pick up from the tank. also beware it the steel lines have been sitting dry for sometime they will flash rust on the inside so be ready for that
also feed the carb a few shots of gas down its throat and let it idle that off and it will eventually pick up from the tank. also beware it the steel lines have been sitting dry for sometime they will flash rust on the inside so be ready for that
I tried that and got nothing. I use this car as my daily driver and never had a problem. I don't have a fuel filter before the pump, so that might have caused a problem.
I don't have a fuel filter before the pump, so that might have caused a problem.
The fuel filter in the carb and the fuel sock in the tank is plenty.
If you can't get the fuel to flow to the front freely the sock in the tank might be plugging up. The fuel sock is a nylon bag that strains the fuel before it leaves the tank. If it gets dirty it will suck shut and turn the fuel flow off.
OK, so I checked the pump and it turns out that it is working. I got a gas can with gas and connected a hose to the pump going to the gas can and gas went up to the carburetor. Now there is no spark going to the plugs, so I am stuck trying to figure out if the coil is bad, or just the distributor itself. I did check the coil and it reads less then 1 ohms, so I'm not sure what's going on? It could also be the distributor not getting 12V, but my voltmeter is not working. I am getting tired of this.
Glad it was not the pump. You pulled the intake and replaced the gaskets is that correct? Pull dist. cap and ck. on rotor if you have not done so. I bet Roger can tell you how to ck. dist. electrical. Good luck, don't give up. mike...
Jordan, I do not want to sound like a smart ****, but is there fuel in the tank ? some of the Q-jets had a very tiny filter at the base of the seat (needle/seat) it is only a screen but can plug up. i one time had a 74 chevy pickup with a 350 in it and when it was cold outside I would set the choke and start it and it would be on fast idle. before it would completely warmup it would die. Took me forever to figure out it was that dam little screen.
Jordan, I do not want to sound like a smart ****, but is there fuel in the tank ? some of the Q-jets had a very tiny filter at the base of the seat (needle/seat) it is only a screen but can plug up. i one time had a 74 chevy pickup with a 350 in it and when it was cold outside I would set the choke and start it and it would be on fast idle. before it would completely warmup it would die. Took me forever to figure out it was that dam little screen.
Yup, there's half a tank in there. I put some fuel in there right before doing the job. It's got a 670 Street Avenger carb.
Which one of the wires provides the 12V to the HEI distributor? I know there's one on the 3 pin plug, but what is the other 2 pin plug for? I know one is for the tach, but what's the other one for?
red wire supplies the juice brown is your tach the other wires goto the dizzy module. coil should read no ohms at all if your get less then 1 ohm i would say its had its day. coil should be a infinite reading meaning theres is no restance. also take the module to advance or autozone they will test it for free. or just replace it with the coil as they dont cost much.
coil should be infinite ohms at the two wires the hot and tach wire post then also infinite from the hot post to the center of the coil.
On my two pin connector, one of the wires is cut. I believe it's the 12V source because the wire next to it is the tachometer wire. I'm going to try to connect a a 'hot' wire to it and see if that will work. I hope that'll work.
Sorry I'm a little late getting back I was driving back from an emergency trip to Ft. Myers.
Where do you stand on checking the dist. ? I cheat a little on these checks,I have a little electronic box I use that checks the module and pickup. An infinite reading between terminals on the pickup coil is bad at anytime (test also while operating vacuum advance).
For the ignition coil , infinite readings across the BAT and TACH terminals are bad. I cheat again here , I have a know good cap and coil I swap in to test (in case the coil is just weak).
Hopefully your engine is already running sweet.