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I have an inline fuel filter that comes loose and leaks. I've tightened it a couple times. After a few days of driving I find that it starts to leak gas.
Any recommendation on what I should use as a replacement?
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That glass filter resting against the valve cover is a fire waiting to happen. You also have too much rubber fuel line which also exposes you to potential fuel leaks. You want a metal filter away from any thing that will cause it to vibrate, and you want to plumb some metal fuel line as far as you can go. Don't know what year your car is so I can get specific on a correct filter.
i see two fire hazards.one is the air cleaner .a back fire thru the carb would not be good with that air cleaner.the rubber lines and that fuel filter .is not recomended.i would replace with metal lines and a metal covered fuel filter.
I agree with what has been said but...................
First, if you really gotta have a see-through fuel filter (which I do).....go to Pep Boys and buy their Purotator see-through filter. Its not located in the shiny chrome section, its in the very back with the crappy plastic and metal filters.
I recommend this because I was all about the coolness factor and chrome. I bought the Russell version and others......and guess what? They all are made of cheap diecast metal and 9 times out of 10, the threads on the end caps aren't machined right...causing leaks.
You can tighten all you want and replace the gasket, and it will still leak. The Puralator filter has a thick Pyrex glass housing and heavy duty metal end caps......AND cost less than the ones in the chrome shiny section. (Its still chrome)
I've been running my Purolator for 10 years now with no problem! My tip though, run the filter lower (closer to the fuel pump). This places it behind the fan and in front of the engine which reduces it's temperature.
Also, definately use steel line........if you drag race, they only allow 6 inches max of rubber fuel line.
Thanks guys. I just got this car a month ago so I don't know why it has these dangerous items. The car is a '76. I'll swap the air filter with another 3 inch one and look for that Purolator at the Pep Boys down the street from me.
This is the Edelbrock/Russell solution. You will need to bend/flare a hard line from the filter down to the fuel pump. Lars has an excellent paper on fabbing fuel tubing.
This is the Edelbrock/Russell solution. You will need to bend/flare a hard line from the filter down to the fuel pump. Lars has an excellent paper on fabbing fuel tubing.
Nice setup!
BTW: Where did you hoook up you electric coke pwr wire to? I installed a Holley and am not really sure of the best way to run the wire to.
That setup was on my former 1967 327/300. The choke was connected to the 12V side of the ballast resistor. But I don't believe C3s have ballast resistors....so I don't have an answer for you.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
For detailed instructions on building a steel fuel line with reliable in-line filters, e-mail me for a copy of my "How to Build a Fuel Line" article. The article has all part numbers needed to install a leak-free in-line filter. Whatever you do, get rid of that rubber hose and the glass filter.
For choke power, you can pull power from the windshield wiper motor - the wiper motor is hot with battery voltage anytime the ignition is on. Do not pull power off the ignition (coil) wire.
That glass filter resting against the valve cover is a fire waiting to happen. You also have too much rubber fuel line which also exposes you to potential fuel leaks. You want a metal filter away from any thing that will cause it to vibrate, and you want to plumb some metal fuel line as far as you can go. Don't know what year your car is so I can get specific on a correct filter.
I went to Pep Boys today, hard to see what fuel filter you're talking about, they were all in boxes. So many different ones that look the same but had different part numbers.