I was just told that I need to have my 327CI, 300hp engine rebuilt. Lucky me!
Anyway, the car is all orginal with matching numbers and for the most part I would like to keep it that way. However, since the engine will be out being rebuit does anyone have any suggestions on improvements I should look at to the engine for more HP or any other thing.
Also, does anyone have a ballpark price on the cost to rebuild.

 

It really depends on your budget and what your looking for in the end build, I would recomend the block be line honed, decked leaving the VIN numbers on the deck, Bore and finish with a plate hone and of cause a clean and mag.

If the block has wear in the cylinders and the ring lands in the pistons are out of spec you will be looking for new pistons.

Balancing the crank would be a plus along with the flywheel and pressure plate.

There are surely better cams out there then the OEM cams.

If your just going with a bore and hone I really would not recomend any one bore off an unsquared decks.

If your going to cut corners you can probably get it done for cheap!!

Here is a budget build that was just wrong and it cost jack another rebuild to take care of his blowby issues and dirty oil in less then 100 miles.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...blem-saga.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...ga-update.html

Good luck which ever way you go.

Carl

 

If your car is truly "un-modified", numbers-matching and was significantly more expensive to buy because of its original condition, you should be wanting to rebuild the engine exactly to factory condition and replace it in the vehicle. But, if you really want to 'beef-up' the engine so you can go "play" with your buddies, why would you want to do that with an original engine? Wear out that engine and the 'extra' value your car had will be gone.

If you want an engine you can abuse, buy a crate engine to stick in the car while you are in a 'playing' mood. Then, if you need to, you can put your original, stock engine back in the car and renew its value.

Now, if you car is modded-up, knock yourself out...because the numbers-matching deal has no added value anyway.

 

Who told you that? Was this person making an uninformed observation or does the person actually know what he/she is talking about?

No ballpark figures. Will you be doing most of the work yourself?

 

Be careful! If your engine is not blowing smoke or making strange noise, you likely don't need a rebuild. Maybe just a repair. If it doean't have the power you would like to have and it is number matching, take it out and get a crate engine or build one.

 

Don't do anything until you do a compression test and a leak-down test.

The open question from all of us is "why"?

 

The problem is I am burning about 1/2 qt. of oil every 500 miles, found oil in the air cleaner, the new plugs all fouled out with in the last 3,000 miles, and a little blue smoke out of the pipes.

 

Good mechanic that has been working on the car since I bought it. He said he did one two years ago and it was about all in $3,500.00

 

Thats pretty steep for a rebuild. My suggestion would be to first do a leakdown test on the motor, not a compression test and hear where its leaking. My guess it that the intake gaskets aren't sealing well and you are sucking oil right into the intake manifold, thats the only thing that I can think of that would use that much oil. Bad valve seals typically don't pass that much oil.

 

These are all useful diagnostics. A compression and leak-down test (as suggested a couple of times now ) will tell us very clearly where the problem is occuring. It certainly could be the rings...or more commonly on an SBC it's the guides.

It's sure a heck of a lot cheaper to do a good head overhaul vs. an engine overhaul.

You can easily do this yourself with a few inexpensive tools from Harbor Freight. They're not the best quality - but they work, and they're cheap.

http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-c...ter-95187.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinde...ter-94190.html

Isn't it worth investing an hour and $50 before you start tearing things apart...?

And...being honest...if your mechanic hasn't done an overhaul in 2 years I would not cut him loose on yours. Engine building isn't particularly complex...but a) it can sure be done badly and b) for a restoration-quality overhaul your average shop is not the right place to go.

I did Corvette BBC overhaul/restoration work for a few years, always at cost. But my rule was if you have a date you need it by, then I'm not the right guy Most shops operate on a "they need it by Friday" basis...and you end up with cut pad stamps, sandblasted casting and date codes, etc...which won't improve the value of your 'Vette.

 

I also have what is called a numbers matching car. But the way I look at it is: I bought my car and it's mine. I won't ever sell it because I couldn't find one like it very easy and it would cost 3-4 times what I paid for mine 20+ years ago. So I reasoned that if I'm never going to sell it and I'm not into that NCRS BS Why not make my 71 the best driving and performance car that I can?

I can see the value in the idea of storing away your 327 and buying a performance aftermarket motor. Something like a ZZ383 with 425 hp and 12/12 warranty would be great

 

Your engine could have much the same symptoms with a stuck PCV valve....

I think some more diagnostics are in order before 'jumping' for a full rebuild. The U.S. economy is a little weak right now ; maybe he's 'drumming up' business.

 

I will purchase the equipment this weekend and give it a try. Thanks and let's see what happens.

 

When I picked up the car last night the mechanic said that one plug had fouled out and the others were "wet". I will take a picture of each when I do the pressure test.

 

How about a bit more history on this engine? @how many miles, been sitting alot? or anything else you can tell us first.

 

There are about 95,000 on it. It is a weekend driver. I bought the car in March and it has been great with no real problems. When I had my mechanic first go over the car he said it was blowing a little blue smoke and that the engine might need to be rebuilt. I only see slight blue smoke when I start it up. The car starts accelerates great. In fact it was not until the recent 300+ mile trip did I have any problem. The only problem was when crusing it was studder slightly, give it the gas and it was fine. There was a little oil in the air cleaner and it consumes about 1/2 qt. of oil every 1,000 miles or so. Just got it back the the mechanic put in hotter plugs. Runs like a top but that may be short lived. I have a problem in understanding how the engine can run so good but still needs to be rebuilt.

 

I tend to agree with the other posters. It is most likely worn valve guides and seals, and you can get it running great again, cut the oil consumption, and end the plug fouling by getting the heads rebuilt. Rebuilding the heads should run about $300, if you pull them off and take them to a shop. I don't know what the labor would be to have someone else pull them.

I also agree that, if you want a bunch more horsepower to play with, get a crate engine and put this engine in mothballs.

 

I built a 327 for a 68 Camaro about 7 years ago for a guy. It ended up being about $1800 parts and machine work. He had hardened seats put in then, not sure I would do that again, that would lessen the cost some. The $1800 included a rebuilt carb. That was with a mild aftermarket cam and basically stock otherwise. Maybe that helps.

I would take the others advice though and stick the 327 in a corner and buy a crate engine. Once the original is gone, it's gone. Car is worth more with an original engine untouched than a rebuilt original with the numbers decked off-so be careful there.

 

Ok in normal terms a 1/2 qt of oil in a 1000 miles is not going to foul out plugs. Is this an auto car? does it use trans oil? If so you may be burning trans oil to foul plugs. You also just may have this engine running to rich of fuel and fouling plugs. Does it get good fuel mileage? You have a lot that can be checked out before rebuilding this engine. Are you using a single grade oil? you should be. When our cars where fairly new GM would not do anything about oil use until you were under a full qt in a 1000 miles!

 

I use Shell Rotella oil. It get fair milage. Manual transmission. I plan to print out all of the comments on this forum and review each with the mechanic.
Thanks folks for you imput.