I have had my '68 for 18 years. It's been nice to see parts come available, like the center console for instance. Yes it is expensive but at least it is available now. Any way I am in the middle of a body off now and love the fact that my car is a little different. Have fun with it if you decide to get it. :D

Rob


[Modified by 68'427, 1:43 AM 3/29/2002]

 

Here's a pic of the '68 I'm considering--whatcha think?

JB



[Modified by JB, 8:41 PM 3/28/2002]

 

I guess I'm prejudice.
I have had my 68 coupe since 1972 and specifically wanted the 68 because it was different and I like that. I agree some parts are 68 only but I have found everything I needed and in fact am in the midst of restoring it to factory specs and even found a 68 crankshaft and new cam. They stopped making the crank in 1969 for my 327 cid 350 HP L79 but you can still get this stuff.
My suggestion is dependant on the condition of the vehicle you are looking at and your skills in doing things yourself so you don't have to pay someone for everything. Make no mistake, none of the Corvettes are cheap to restore but it can be done if you use your head and do the homework.
I would buy a 68 again in a heartbeat. I also agree with one of the comments about some midyear parts being hard to find but that doesn't make midyear cars less desireable.
And yes, I even found 2 replacement lamp lenses for the inside pillars on the coupe right here on the Corvette forum. You have to study your catalogs and rely on fellow Corvette owners and you can get most any part you want.
If the car you're looking at is in reasonable shape and you can fix what needs fixing, don't let the fact that it is a 68 scare you away. The parts market is so much better today with lots of aftermarket suppliers and repros than it was back in 1972.
Good luck with your decision and I hope you enjoy whatever year Corvette you end up with. Stay tuned to this forum for any help you need.
This is a fantastic resource and there are some truly knowledgable and helpful people here.

 

Look no one else here wants to tell ya the truth...68's suck..the one-of-a-kind parts, poor resale value,the first year problems, the overheating thing,the ignition swith on the dash, the lack of pull straps on the doors, the door button that they don't make anymore and can't be bought, in fact I run whenever I see a 68. I would just forget about it...BTW where is that car located in Texas :D :D :D :D

 

>>Here's a pic of the '68 I'm considering--whatcha think?

Looks good! However - looks alone should not be the main consideration.
How is the frame? any rust?
How is the condition of some of the 68' specific parts: Center gauge bezel, door buttons (does the locking mechanism work fine), door panels, console plate, dash panels....)
How is the condition of the brakes? Does the car pull when braking quickly?
How is the conditon of the rear wheel bearrings? Are they tight?
Is the car matching numbers? Are the headlights going up and down?
Are the wipers working properly? Is the wiper door opening and closing when turning on/off the wipers?

If you can answer all those questions and you tell me what the seller is asking for the car - I can tell you if it's a good deal or not!

Olivier

 

’68 is a very good choice. Everyone knows real cars have the ignition on the dash!

 

What kind of coin?

 

I was wondering the same...

 

I've never found '68 parts to be rare, I have all of mine. :yesnod:

 

I bought a 68 roadster, 400 HP 427, 4-speed 6 years ago, to drive while I restored my 70 coupe 350 that I owned since 1986. The car shook like HELL over bumps. Caused me to pull the body, weld in the rear frame kick up gussets that were standard from 69-up. Also welded in the dash corner gussets, braces to the steering column support from a 69, made molds of the floor of my 70 at the firewall and bonded them in, (68 firewalls are thinner and often crack at the bottom by your heels), found all the aluminum rivets that tie the metal panel behind the seats to the floor tub had failed, I also changed the core support lower mounting to attach to the front frame crossmember as 69-up. If anyone wonders why I went this extent, its because there is somethings about a 68 I can't resist. Forgot to mention I also installed a set of 78 front spindles and steering arms. Can't wait to drive it. If the car you are looking at is tight, I would snap it up.

 

Is $14,500 too much for this car given the following:

--no rust
--numbers matching
--some unoriginal interior parts, including steering wheel
--somewhat rough paint
--rotted rubber mouldings

Rest of the car seems good, including the convertible top, recently rebuilt engine.

JB

 

Wow, now that is a tough question! Somewhat rough paint? :eek:
Isn't to far our of line with what I have seen though. Paint is expensive. I would rather be around $10,000 but who knows. :confused: :confused: Figure cost to repair all items you dislike and see where you are. Depends on how bad you want it! :cheers:

Steve

 

--some unoriginal interior parts, including steering wheel

Yeah, those chrome side vents are unoriginal, too - not avail. until 1969 ! :rolleyes:

Don't get me wrong - I'd buy it and try to make it 100% '68-correct and that's a challenge, but '68s can grow on you - it's looks like a beauty to me! :D ----great color too :chevy

 

Oh - hey Steve - we've found your twin ! :jester

Maybe all 3 of us can be triplets !!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

Hey, he is somewhere in TEXAS too! How many of these things are there around here? :confused: Can't help but love that car! :)

:seeya Steve

 

Sounds good to me. I'm going to ask a lot more then that when it's done.

 

>>Is $14,500 too much for this car given the following:
>>--no rust
>>--numbers matching
>>--some unoriginal interior parts, including steering wheel
>>--somewhat rough paint
>>--rotted rubber mouldings
>>
>>Rest of the car seems good, including the convertible top, recently rebuilt
>>engine.

A original steering wheel for a 68 is a pretty expencive part. Those wheels were wood - like or wood finish and larger than the ones on 69 Vettes. I have seen some of those sell for $600 on Ebay...
I wouldn't be too much concerned about the paint. As long as the body doesn't have any major cracks or other problems - a good paint job won't cost too much. For $2000 you can get a really nice paint job if no body work is required. The rubber moldings are not too expencive...
However - $14500 is not really cheap. It's not expencive either... with other words it might be a good deal for $14500 but not a "great" deal. I would pay a maximum of approx. $12000 for the car...(if I would be looking for one right now)

Olivier

 

I don't have an opinion other than that if it's a nice 68, scoop it up :cheers: . I just wanted to ask all of the 68/69 guys...the car in the pic has gill trim, isn't that a 69 only option?

AC :cheers:

 

>>the car in the pic has gill trim, isn't that a 69 only option?

I guess you mean the vent covers... AFAIK you are right. Those were only an option in 69!

Olivier

 

I'm pretty happy with mine, although it is modified.