Fluid level in Master Cylinder
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Maryland
St. Jude Donor '10
Fluid level in Master Cylinder
First let my start by apologizing if this is an elementary question. I am new to all of this so I will probably have a lot of stupid question threads, so please just try to bare with me.
I noticed that my left front caliper is leaking so I figured I would check on the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. However I don't really know what level it should be at. I have tried to research and some places say to the very top, and others say up to down 1/2" from the top is alright. Also when I pulled the cover off, the gasket bladders where fully extended. Here is what it looks like now:
Thanks!
I noticed that my left front caliper is leaking so I figured I would check on the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. However I don't really know what level it should be at. I have tried to research and some places say to the very top, and others say up to down 1/2" from the top is alright. Also when I pulled the cover off, the gasket bladders where fully extended. Here is what it looks like now:
Thanks!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2009
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Origianlly, yes. Unless someone changed it over to silicone. Get some DOT 3 and mix a small amount of what you have now with a small amount of the DOT 3 in a clear container. If they mix and do not seperate then it is still DOT 3. mike...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: SUFFIELD CT USA 2023 C8 CORVETTE UN-MODIFIED FINALIST
2023 C8 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Dot 3&4 are compatible. If you leak on your left front the front portion of your MC should be going down. In your photo they both look even, how bad is the leak?
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Maryland
St. Jude Donor '10
Thanks for the info!
The leak isn't too bad, leaves a little puddle when the car sits for a couple days, I'll try to get a picture tomorrow, the car still stops and the brake pedal isn't soft (even though I've only owned the car for able two weeks so maybe I don't know what the pedal is supposed to feel like.)
The leak isn't too bad, leaves a little puddle when the car sits for a couple days, I'll try to get a picture tomorrow, the car still stops and the brake pedal isn't soft (even though I've only owned the car for able two weeks so maybe I don't know what the pedal is supposed to feel like.)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Northeast
The manual has a wealth of info from fuse box to capacities. You should get one for easy reference.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Crossville TN
The master cylinder sits at a tilt, so the fluid won't be exactly level. Fill each section until the fluid reaches 1/4" from the top lip...probably at the back of the reservoir. As brake pads wear, they will lose material and move closer to the rotor. When that happens, fluid moves in behind the caliper piston to make up the movement difference. That's what causes the fluid level to decrease in the master cylinder. [Except for your leakage, of course.]
You still need to remove the affected wheel and find where the leak is coming from. If it is from a caliper, it is probably some leakage around a well-used seal and is not in immediate need of being replaced. However, if you find it is from a broken/split flex hose for solid brake line, change it ASAP. When the hose/line finally gives out completely, your braking problems will become more serious.
You still need to remove the affected wheel and find where the leak is coming from. If it is from a caliper, it is probably some leakage around a well-used seal and is not in immediate need of being replaced. However, if you find it is from a broken/split flex hose for solid brake line, change it ASAP. When the hose/line finally gives out completely, your braking problems will become more serious.
Advanced
Joined: May 2008
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From: Pensacola FL
Mine had that leak and it was the caliper... change it.. most of your stopping power comes from the front brakes and you don;t want to lose them.. its a fairly easy job to change the caliper,, 2 bolts and the line in back... have girl friend pump the petal to bleed it... oh yea have beer on hand too!!!!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: New Carlisle IN
Also while changing the leaking caliper, change the pads too. The pads can soak up the brake fluid and that can cause problems also. Then also use brake parts cleaner and clean off the rotor and inside wheel to get all of the fluid out of there.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Maryland
St. Jude Donor '10
Thanks for the tips guys! Changing a caliper might be out of my technical range however, and I hate the thought of getting it wrong and not being able to stop! I might just have my mechanic take care of it. I thought I read somewhere that when you change and replace one side you should change the other, is this true? Also would I just buy a whole new caliper, I'm guessing it isn't just a leak that can be fixed some other way.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
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From: San Jose CA
Thanks for the tips guys! Changing a caliper might be out of my technical range however, and I hate the thought of getting it wrong and not being able to stop! I might just have my mechanic take care of it. I thought I read somewhere that when you change and replace one side you should change the other, is this true? Also would I just buy a whole new caliper, I'm guessing it isn't just a leak that can be fixed some other way.
Anyways - changing a caliper really isn't too difficult at all, but it's best not to leap into things. You need to know how to bleed brakes as well. The rotor should most likely be turned at this point as well.
I recommend that you source a really nice quality set of calipers from one of the vendors rather than something from a parts store, the aftermarket calipers are designed to last much longer than stock. Do a forum search for "stainless brake calipers" for a ton of info.
Last edited by Shark Racer; Aug 30, 2010 at 05:48 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Gillette Wyoming
Just a idea, get sleeved calipers with the "O" ring no the lip seals the O-ring seals are much better(if you get original rebuilds with the "O" rings they don't cost much more) and put a set of speed bleeders on the new calipers will make life a lot nicer whwen bleeding the brakes. Do not worry it is all fairly easy 2 bolts and the brake hose and you can take it off.
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From: Maryland
St. Jude Donor '10
Thank you so much for all the help everyone, I really appreciate it. Are there any threads on here or any other source that has step by step instructions with pictures on replacing calipers and bleeding the brakes? Also, I have been hearing a lot about the O-rings and ss sleeves, are these from willcox a good investiment?: http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=24706