Radiator Problem
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
Radiator Problem
The other day I drained the radiator and when I turned the drain **** to loosen it, the drain **** came off completely. This is what it looks like. I'm not sure what to do to repair it?
Drain ****:
Bottom of Radiator(Drain **** Area):
Can it be fixed, and if so what can be done? I was thinking about using some JB Weld to try and fix it, but wanted to ask for opinions. The surrounding area on the radiator is not cracked or anything.
Drain ****:
Bottom of Radiator(Drain **** Area):
Can it be fixed, and if so what can be done? I was thinking about using some JB Weld to try and fix it, but wanted to ask for opinions. The surrounding area on the radiator is not cracked or anything.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
What came off is the drain **** that someone else already had come off on them. They obviously tried to use epoxy to stick it back on. Didn't work, apparently.
The draincock needs to be soldered back into place. To do that, the tank must be drained and flushed (to get glycol residue out), or you won't be able to get the tank temp over 220*F or so. So, it must be pretty dry inside. Then the surfaces of the tank and draincock need to be wire brushed and cleaned, fluxed and then the two items soldered using [at least] a propane torch. It can easily be done in the car IF you have someone who knows what they're doing. Otherwise, you will have to pull the radiator
and take it to a shop to repair.
Do yourself a favor and don't try the JB Weld method again. It is unlikely to hold well enough to stay intact over the 'long haul'.
The draincock needs to be soldered back into place. To do that, the tank must be drained and flushed (to get glycol residue out), or you won't be able to get the tank temp over 220*F or so. So, it must be pretty dry inside. Then the surfaces of the tank and draincock need to be wire brushed and cleaned, fluxed and then the two items soldered using [at least] a propane torch. It can easily be done in the car IF you have someone who knows what they're doing. Otherwise, you will have to pull the radiator
and take it to a shop to repair.Do yourself a favor and don't try the JB Weld method again. It is unlikely to hold well enough to stay intact over the 'long haul'.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
What came off is the drain **** that someone else already had come off on them. They obviously tried to use epoxy to stick it back on. Didn't work, apparently.
The draincock needs to be soldered back into place. To do that, the tank must be drained and flushed (to get glycol residue out), or you won't be able to get the tank temp over 220*F or so. So, it must be pretty dry inside. Then the surfaces of the tank and draincock need to be wire brushed and cleaned, fluxed and then the two items soldered using [at least] a propane torch. It can easily be done in the car IF you have someone who knows what they're doing. Otherwise, you will have to pull the radiator and take it to a shop to repair.
Do yourself a favor and don't try the JB Weld method again. It is unlikely to hold well enough to stay intact over the 'long haul'.
The draincock needs to be soldered back into place. To do that, the tank must be drained and flushed (to get glycol residue out), or you won't be able to get the tank temp over 220*F or so. So, it must be pretty dry inside. Then the surfaces of the tank and draincock need to be wire brushed and cleaned, fluxed and then the two items soldered using [at least] a propane torch. It can easily be done in the car IF you have someone who knows what they're doing. Otherwise, you will have to pull the radiator
and take it to a shop to repair.Do yourself a favor and don't try the JB Weld method again. It is unlikely to hold well enough to stay intact over the 'long haul'.
.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 596
Likes: 6
From: Irving Texas
I've done a dozen radiator repairs and almost always.......it's cheaper to just buy a new radiator when you add up the rebuild costs and in your case, welding a new petcock.
You can get a replacement radiator for $270 at autozone or an aluminum at Summit for $300
You can get a replacement radiator for $270 at autozone or an aluminum at Summit for $300
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Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
I've done a dozen radiator repairs and almost always.......it's cheaper to just buy a new radiator when you add up the rebuild costs and in your case, welding a new petcock.
You can get a replacement radiator for $270 at autozone or an aluminum at Summit for $300
You can get a replacement radiator for $270 at autozone or an aluminum at Summit for $300
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
.I've done a dozen radiator repairs and almost always.......it's cheaper to just buy a new radiator when you add up the rebuild costs and in your case, welding a new petcock.
You can get a replacement radiator for $270 at autozone or an aluminum at Summit for $300
You can get a replacement radiator for $270 at autozone or an aluminum at Summit for $300
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 10,628
Likes: 132
From: Duvall, WA
If your radiator was working fine before this happened, I would get it fixed at a radiator shop. You know it fits and it is likely to be better built than any new radiator short of a Dewitt's.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
Yup, the radiator was working fine with no leaks. That's why I want to get it fixed and done right. I'm going to pull it out and take a to a radiator shop to have it fixed.
