Question about changing intake manifold
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Question about changing intake manifold
Hello, I just changed my intake manifold yesterday and I did a lot of reading about it before I changed it out. After I got it tightened down I thought of something and was wondering if I did it right or wrong. I was thinking if I needed to put RTV around the distributor hole? I only ran the bead across the china wall and around the water inlet holes. So did I do it correct or did I mess up and have to re-do it? Thanks everyone
Adam
Adam
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: McGrady NC
St. Jude Donor '15-'16
You did right. There should be a thin paper gasket under the distributor. Otherwise, RTV just goes across the ends and around the water passages. A good intake gasket set handles the rest. BTW, a little sealer on the bolt threads prevents oil from seeping up and pooling on the intake. Not much is needed there and it seems that only certain bolts are open to oil from underneath.
Last edited by CaseyJones; Aug 29, 2010 at 09:10 AM.
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Great ! I do have a paper gasket to put under the distributor when I install it back on the manifold. How hard is it to set the timing because I did not mark the distributor when I removed it 
But it only go's on one way really because of the tachometer(I think that is what it is) faces one side. I bought a timing gun just in case I need it. My brother told me to get it close to the original install and try to start the car... if it starts and sounds good then its ok ... how true is that? Thank you 
But it only go's on one way really because of the tachometer(I think that is what it is) faces one side. I bought a timing gun just in case I need it. My brother told me to get it close to the original install and try to start the car... if it starts and sounds good then its ok ... how true is that? Thank you
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 955
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From: Jersey Shore
Turn the motor over to get it to the top dead center mark on the balancer. Watch the valves on the #1 cylinder to make sure that they are both closed when it is at TDC. Install the distributor with the rotor pointing to the #1 cylinder. Make sure the #1 spark plug wire is in the same spot as the rotor tip. This should get you close enough to start the car and time it properly.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
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From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
mostly If the valve covers are on, you can just pull the #1 spark plug, hold your finger over the hole and bump it until you feel the pressure. It'll start a lot easier at 8-10 degrees BTDC than TDC.Note that once you get everthing aligned you'll probably find that the distributor shaft won't fully engage with the oil pump intermediate shaft and the distributor won't drop all the way. Just pull the distributor up and turn the rotor back 1 tooth...put it back in...and bump the engine until it drops. Double-check your timing and off you go.
Many intake gaskets no longer require RTV around the water passages - make sure you read the instructions next time around.
Last edited by billla; Aug 29, 2010 at 05:18 PM.
