TIG Welding Aluminum (help)
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,877
Likes: 1
From: Park Ridge IL
TIG Welding Aluminum (help)
I'm looking for some expert advice on TIG welding aluminum. I just bought a new Lincoln Squarewave TIG machine a couple of weeks ago. I was able to pick up on welding steel and stainless almost immediately and my welds show good penetration and have a good appearance.
However with 6061 aluminum, I am not getting the results I want in terms of penetration or appearance. I'm using 100% Argon with 3/32" tungsten. I've tried both 2% Thoriated as well as pure Tungsten. I've also experimented with both grinding the Tungsten to a "crayon" like point with a small flat end, as well as the old traditional way of balling it first. The guidelines I use for establishing the amps is 1 amp for every .001" of material thickness.
I've been practicing on some 1/8" scrape bar, trying to but weld them together to practice getting good penetration and appearance. The problem I am having is that the bead either isn't getting good penetration or it burns through. I am told a little keyholing is normal, just fill it with filler rod. As the material heats up, the weld beads become very wide and shallow. As the puddle cools, it produces a fine crack due to stress in the weld. Also, the previous puddle bubbles are hardens with a dimple in it when I move down to make the next bead.
Any tips?
However with 6061 aluminum, I am not getting the results I want in terms of penetration or appearance. I'm using 100% Argon with 3/32" tungsten. I've tried both 2% Thoriated as well as pure Tungsten. I've also experimented with both grinding the Tungsten to a "crayon" like point with a small flat end, as well as the old traditional way of balling it first. The guidelines I use for establishing the amps is 1 amp for every .001" of material thickness.
I've been practicing on some 1/8" scrape bar, trying to but weld them together to practice getting good penetration and appearance. The problem I am having is that the bead either isn't getting good penetration or it burns through. I am told a little keyholing is normal, just fill it with filler rod. As the material heats up, the weld beads become very wide and shallow. As the puddle cools, it produces a fine crack due to stress in the weld. Also, the previous puddle bubbles are hardens with a dimple in it when I move down to make the next bead.
Any tips?
Racer
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
From: Ft Walton Bch FL
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum (Monty)
I'm not an expert with aluminum, but I have progressed to the point where I'm comfortable welding it. The biggest trick for me to learn was to pick up the pace a little over steel. I will pedal it pretty deep to get a puddle formed quickly, then start the bead moving and dab in filler with quick strokes as I go to get the "row of coins" look. Then add a little extra filler to the puddle as you end the bead, and keep the torch over the weld until the gas flow stops. I tend to aim into the weld with the torch a little doing steel, but found I need to keep it straight up with aluminum or it will burn back the filler rod. It sounds like you're on the right track; just a little more practice and you'll have it nailed.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,877
Likes: 1
From: Park Ridge IL
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum (dually4wd)
Par tof my problem is that I'm using things like a Hogan's manifold or a Stef's oil pan for comparison. You mentioned the 'row of coins look", that's what I want - good penetration, symmetrical, evenly spaced puddles. Not asking for much...
When you are welding a continuous bead, how far do you move the torch to start the next bead? Also, between dips, do you use the footpedal to lower the amps and move the torch, or do you stop the arc via with the foot pedal and move the torch and then restrike the arc?
When you are welding a continuous bead, how far do you move the torch to start the next bead? Also, between dips, do you use the footpedal to lower the amps and move the torch, or do you stop the arc via with the foot pedal and move the torch and then restrike the arc?
Racer
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
From: Ft Walton Bch FL
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum (Monty)
Once I have the bead rolling along, I keep the torch moving forward smoothly without stopping or letting up on the pedal, unless I need to adjust the heat a little. The stack of coins appearance is created entirely by how consistently you dab in the filler. Oh yeah, it helps when starting out to conciously pull the rod back after each dab. Once you get comfortable with the technique, it becomes second nature. Now you'll be ruined like I am; I have to tig everything because mig welds just look huge to me now. LOL
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
From: Concord Cal
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum (clem zahrobsky)
Yes 6061 is weldable you need the AC side with the high freak on. It doesn't weld as easily as 3003 and can crack but with practice you will be fine. The most important thing with alum is the metal must be clean. You do need to go rather fast or as you discovered a giant hole will appear. Just practice you will get it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,052
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver BC, Canada
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum (clem zahrobsky)
yeah, 6061 is excellent for welding, like is said in other post, heat the parts first. when i did mine, i had it set up by a freind, so i can't help too much on the details of the setup. once started, i did not have to adjust anything
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: greenville mi
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum (Monty)
Monty, I think I might be able to help with your problem maybe! I have quite alot of experience with welding because I've done it for a living for the last 26 years. Aluminum takes alot of heat to get a puddle started because it absorbs heat very fast. The problem is when you get a puddle going the whole piece is getting hot not just the area your welding like steel, so as you go with your bead you need to watch the puddle and if it starts to widden and flatten out you are getting too hot back off on the heat that will also help with the line in the weld you were talking about that cracks. At the end of your weld if you back off on the heat and allow the puddle to cool slower with the argon flowing over the weld you probably will eliminate the pin hole you were getting. Try also adjusting your argon preasure up or down I don't know how much preasure your using but too little will cause poor welds and too much will cause poor welds too. Hope this might help alittle, Mike :seeya
P.S. You should always have a ball on your tungsten when welding aluminum!
P.S. You should always have a ball on your tungsten when welding aluminum!
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Instructor
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Grand Rapids MI
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum (Monty)
Like Oger said, "Clean" is the word. Preparation seems to be 90% of the battle when welding aluminum. Pre-heating helps too. As far as butt-welds on thin material- they are tough. You will need to use filler, and shaping the ends that you are connecting to a V makes it easier to get even penetration.
Matt
PS- how did the 4l80E turn out? (I haven't been around in a while.)
[Modified by Matt M, 4:28 AM 3/30/2002]
Matt
PS- how did the 4l80E turn out? (I haven't been around in a while.)
[Modified by Matt M, 4:28 AM 3/30/2002]
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,877
Likes: 1
From: Park Ridge IL
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum (Matt M)
Thanks for the pointers. I've been keeping the Argon at around 18-20cfh.
Matt, the 4L80E went very smoothly. I haven't driven the car yet with it, but the installation was a breeze.
Matt, the 4L80E went very smoothly. I haven't driven the car yet with it, but the installation was a breeze.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 11,123
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From: SE Pennsylvania
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '26
Oldtimer
Re: TIG Welding Aluminum (Monty)
It's very hard not seeing your setup, But off the top of my head it sounds like you running too hot, (too much amperage) and your not moving along the kurf fast enough ! 6061 is very high quality alum. but you much move fast so as not to allow the kural to blow through. Also are you connection correct? Positive lead is attached to the torch right? Make sure the polarity is correct.
