I have a yellow wire going from the S terminal on my Ultima Starter. That yellow wire feeds to the + side of teh coil, which has a white/blue/red plaid wire that goes into the fuse box. I think it goes into the IGN area of the fuse box.

I wired my starter like this:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...on-wiring.html

Are the yellow and purple wires backwards? Can anyone describe what is happening with power/flow?

PS - my Mallory Coil (Dual Point Distributor) has oil leaking into the top connection. I am heading out to get a new one.

 

The S terminal needs the purple. I doubt your starter has a place for the yellow.

 

Rog - appreciate.

This is my current connection (see below):

I am kinda reeling... aside from electrical not being my bag - seeing smoke was not a good feeling. It was only for a short moment - I was very prepared and acted quick to disconnect the power.

So - I am thinking the purple wire says 'energize solenoid to initiate cranking the starter'. The yellow says 'during cranking add full 12v to coil.' But I think what was happening is my yellow wire is getting 12v constantly. (This occurred with the key in the 'On' position - I never got to crank). Therefore I think I DO IN FACT NEED A RELAY to control this.

With the wiring configuration I have - was the extra voltage (if that was the issue) coming from the S terminal and not from the firewall side? I am confused on the flow of things.

The white/red/blue plaid wire going into the fuse block got warm. I traced it on all my schematics. I am concerened if I damaged something. But, the wire from the starter (yellow) to coil and wire from coil (white/red/plaid) to fuse block have no indication of slightest damage - but I wonder about under the dash. Any suggestions/comments?

 

I'm going to reread your post but looking at the pic the yellow is going to short the power going to the coil when the starter is not engaged. If you keep the yellow on the big terminal I think you need a diode to keep yellow from bleeding the coil.

 

OK I think the yellow is going to apply unrestricted 12v to the coil on cranking but when you release the key the white/red/plaid resistor wire power is feeding down the yellow wire into the starter windings. Thats why I think you need a diode on the yellow. If you attach the yellow to the purple the same thing will happen,the power will be fed into the solenoid windings.
As you say a relay will also work.

 

I saw a 6amp diode at the Shack today for under $3.

 

Hey ROg

Thanks again. I think I am understanding a bit more. So - you think that may be a direct short on the yellow wire .....hmmm.

I took a few pics of teh starter and see an 'S' on the larger terminal where I have the yellow connected. I think I see an 'I' by the smaller terminal - but am unsure. ^%%)*@#&)%#.

First, I plan on going to get a new coil tomorrow. And a diode as suggested - I may get a higher amp ??? I will also call Ultima (if possible) or Jegs. I am hoping to get a schematic or information on the needs of the starter in various stages of cranking. Maybe try to do some tests and get the draws on the starter and the ignition switch tomorrow evening.

You know I appreciate - stressed out a bit - going to bed...

 

My friend is putting in a mini starter and ran into what I believe is the same issue.

The following may help you.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10038/10002/-1 $20

http://www.the12volt.com/diodes/diodes.asp description of diodes.

What do I do with the wire that connected to the “R” terminal on the original starter? In vehicles originally equipped with a breaker point ignition, the wiring harnesses “R” circuit was a ballast resistor bypass. This terminal is “no connection” when the starter is at rest and is +12VDC while cranking. This circuit provided +12VDC to the ignition coil during cranking for easier engine starting. Cars that do not have a ballast resistor (ie: HEI, MSD or other aftermarket ignition systems) should not need this connection. In most cases this wire will be eliminated.

However, cars equipped with a ballast resistor (ie: Breaker Point or Mallory Unilite) may need this harness.
If the engine has no ignition during cranking, then the wiring of the coil is going to require an “R” terminal signal. To accomplish this, install an “R” Terminal Diode Kit, part number 555-10038, sold separately.

 

Hey Rog / My69....

I did a ton of reading today on this - trying to learn

I understand much more of the resistance wire and what prupose it serves. I also xerexoed copies of my electrical schematics from my 69 AIM and see what circuits/wires are involved.

Since my coil is leaking oil (how and when did that happen), that is going away and I will get the proper one (GM Delco 1115287) or equivelant. That could be an issue, but...??

I contacted Lectric Limited today and they said the white plaid looking cover is a fiberglass wrap to help prevent heat damage form the wire. The wire (yellow from Solenoid to coil to fuse block is a resistance wire and is always warmer than other wires. Also - he said smoke 'can' be caused by grease on hands from installation, or grease within the connection (which there was alot of)...

Regardless, I am not taking any chances and willl refrain from any further tests until complete review has been done. My friend is coming over tomorrow and will assess - he is well versed on electrical issues. SO hopefully we will find what is going on.

FYI - I previously (8 years ago) had a Mallory 527 Ingition Coil with a Colbert 0.8 ohm external ballast. I did not use the ballast with my new LEctric Limited wiring. Maybe that was another mistake of mine as well.

Also - comes a thought - do I have the wrong starter. I got one for a 1999 Suburban Ultima 03-0485 and am thinking I may should have bought 03-0254 (Cast Iron Nose) or 03-0364 (Aluminum Nose). I am searching for a picture of either of these to assess the connectons

 

The yellow isn't a resistance wire , the other wire is the resistance wire. The engine starts on the yellow and runs on the other wire coming from the bulkhead connector.

 

Roger - thank you for teh clarification on the resistor wire. And just fyi - the entire wire from solenoid to coil to fuse block is yellow, but the portion from coil to fuse block is covered with the white/red/blue plaid fiberglass 'sleeve'.

Status:
I ordered a new harness form Lectric Limited and installed it yesterday. I also bought a new coil and an alternate starter [[ 03-0254 (Cast Iron Nose) ]] like the original OEM for right now..... I just need simplicity in the electrical setup now and in getting it started and all the 'bugs' worked out after a full restoration. I was able to put the ignition switch into ON position wiithout any issues, however, I cannot get the starter to turn. It must be either the Neutral Safety Switch or Ignition Switch adjustment. Will venture there this afternoon and report.

So - I believe the issue was indeed the starter I previoulsy had installed and it required a relay/resistor wire at the solenoid yellow wire to prevent a full 12v from being sent to the coil when the ignition switch was in the on position.

Thank you for all ya'lls help. Will follow up as applicable.

 

Gents - got it fired up . Man it sounds nasty (in a good way).

I did have a secondary issue (another one) .... it was my neutral safety switch wire (under console) had a spade connector that was bent and not touching the mating contactor surface.

I found that out by by-passing the clutch neutral saftey switch and the starter engaged. So I knew that secondary issue was a neutral safety switch issue.

Used my schematics, Doc Rebuild charts, alot of thinking, tracing wires on the schematics, a few simple electronic tools, patience and the guidance from CF friends.... THANK YOU

Last, I kept hearing 'something electrical' engaging under the console when I put the key to the ON position. I never recalled hearing that noise before (since 1976)... I was able to track it down to the Power Windows circuit. Maybe you all can guide me - I assume its OK and that is just a PW relay energizing.