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overheating problem in my c3

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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 10:45 PM
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Default overheating problem in my c3

ive got a 1975 thats overheating. car overheating very quickly, within a few minutes temp is upwards of 230 reaching as high as 250 or so and coolant is boiling out of the radiator. after i turn the engine off, temperature continues to climb for another 15 degrees or so before it tops off and starts to cool. have a dual fan aftermarket radiator, fans are working. don't have a tstat, oil seems fine, completely stumped as to what the next move is.
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 11:09 PM
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It sounds like your system may not be holding pressure. It could be as simple as replacing the radiator cap.
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 11:15 PM
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already replaced the cap.. no change. also fluid is circulating through the radiator with no problems.
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 11:24 PM
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Wait........did you say you DON'T have a thermostat?

It is very important and needs to be there. Only drag racers that drive 1/4 mile at a time can run without one.
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 11:25 PM
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Make sure the fans are blowing the right way and are pointed the right way. The "cups" on the blades go towards the engine. Are they pushing or pulling? Have a condensor?
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 07:28 AM
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In addition to good advice above: Check your lower hose to make sure it isn't collapsing. Check your timing (read the sticky at the top of this thread). Re-install a quality 180 deg thermostat, but drill a 1/8" air bleed hole in the flange (search the Forum for info on this).
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 09:10 AM
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Default ???

Why does he "need" a theromostat? Unless the Corvette cooling system is an odd-ball, in my experience worst case with no thermostat is that the engine will run very cool - too cool for winter heat and it will take a long time for the choke to shut off.

BTW: did it start running hot after a mod or repair? How long has the engine been running in the configuration you described?


Originally Posted by snoopykissedlucy
Wait........did you say you DON'T have a thermostat?

It is very important and needs to be there. Only drag racers that drive 1/4 mile at a time can run without one.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 09:55 AM
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Need more info. Highway or idling.

If overheating while idling, you have an issue with the fans not pulling air through the radiator.

If overheating on the highway (greater than 40mph cruise), fans are not a factor. Do you have all the radiator seals to stop air from bypassing the radiator.

Also, what is the condition of your waterpump and hoses. It is possible that your lower hose is collapsing, preventing flow.

Also, no reason not to run a thermostat. They just control the lower temp of the system, decrease warmup time, and prevent excessive wear. I like a 180 stat myself.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by snoopykissedlucy
Wait........did you say you DON'T have a thermostat?

It is very important and needs to be there. Only drag racers that drive 1/4 mile at a time can run without one.
Oh God, not this one again.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Oh God, not this one again.
My thoughts exactly.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by mar
Why does he "need" a theromostat? Unless the Corvette cooling system is an odd-ball, in my experience worst case with no thermostat is that the engine will run very cool - too cool for winter heat and it will take a long time for the choke to shut off.

BTW: did it start running hot after a mod or repair? How long has the engine been running in the configuration you described?
It's all about engine coolant pressure and vapor bubbles. You can research that and come to your own conclusions.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 04:12 PM
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redline makes an additive called water wetter that helps lower temps.
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 12:27 PM
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My high heat problems went on for a while..

1) New radiator cap - no change.
2) Checked air dams under nose, ensure proper air flow - no problems.
3) Replaced radiator foam seals- no change
4) Installed high flow water pump - No change.
5) High flow t-state - no change.
6) New OEM radiator - little chance.
7) After market fan to replace the OEM electric fan - little change.
8) Water Wetter - little change.
9) 100% glyco.... - bad idea! (50/50 now)
10) Aluminum radiator w/dual fans - some change - not good enough! WTF!!
11) Installed correct gauge wiring to the new dual fans - FIXED!!

I made the mistake of using the OEM electric fan wiring harness for the new duals, which pulls 40+ amps, these new fans were running at half their available CFM flow. When I installed the manufacturers wire harness for these fans, the high heat (240 degrees) and over heat (250+) went away!

I am lucky I did not burn up my 82 as the OEM harness started to melt! Lesson learned - always use the correct gauge wiring!

I live in Arizona and at the time of all of this, my 82 was a daily driver and in the summer, with the AC on, +110 degrees outside, in traffic - I now do not see more than 215 degrees in these harsh conditions! Normal temps now runs at 180 to 190.

Good Luck!
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by snoopykissedlucy
Wait........did you say you DON'T have a thermostat?

It is very important and needs to be there. Only drag racers that drive 1/4 mile at a time can run without one.
I kept mine without a thermostat for months with no problems at all (just it takes time to warm up).

what kind of fans do you have? pushers? pullers? , are they located in front or rear of the radiator?
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 02:30 PM
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Default drilling a 1/8 hole

Originally Posted by Rally68
In addition to good advice above: Check your lower hose to make sure it isn't collapsing. Check your timing (read the sticky at the top of this thread). Re-install a quality 180 deg thermostat, but drill a 1/8" air bleed hole in the flange (search the Forum for info on this).
can't find anything on the forum, can you tell me more about the 1/8air bleed hole? Ron
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 09:53 PM
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Are you sure you lined up the flanges correctly on the radiator cap, pushed it down firmly and turned it all the way to the right? Needs to seal tight.
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 10:01 PM
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the 1/8" hole is if you had a thermostat you drill a small hole through the thermostat, this lets a small amount of air or fluid through the thermostat making it much easier to get all the air out of the system.

Makes bleeding much simpler.
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 08:56 AM
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Do you have a stock radiator, cap and coolant recovery tank installed? It's normal for some coolant to pushed out of the rad to the tank when the car is at normal temps.

Have you verified the accuracy of the gauge?
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 12:44 PM
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Just a few quick thoughts - one guy on another forum had problems with overheating because his engine builder put the wrong head gaskets on, 400 on a 350 or vice-versa. Also I'm not a believer in the electric fans, lots of people have had trouble with them. I run a direct fan on the waterpump, Stewart waterpump and Stewart drilled thermostat (160), original type brass 4-core radiator and the temperature never gets over 180 even climbing a hill on a 95 degree day.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 07:54 PM
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The car has electric fans which seem to be operating fine. I have checked the oil and the color seems to be fine, although I have read different descriptions of what the oil will look like when coolant has mixed. I added a 180 thermostat, started car and let it run for about 7 minutes or so today and the temp gauge never made it to 180 degrees and the coolant never began to circulate through the radiator. Problem is there was a steady stream of white smoke coming from the tailpipes which has yet to happen before. The smoke was very light and could not be seen when I tried to video for a friend to see.
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