Have a 700R4 in my 77 with moderately built 350. Shift pattern works great does not have a shift kit still stock--downshifts and goes through the pattern like new. My only issue and question is about the first shift--stomp on it it doesn't go far before it is in 2nd. Put the shift locks in the console so I can pull it down for manual shift. It holds in all gears except first--makes no difference as to shift pattern either pulled into 1st by shifter or if I just leave it in "D" and mash it. It still goes little ways and shifts up to 2nd.

Anything to do? thanks for any direction on this--

 

A stock 700R4 will shift up from 1st on it's own, even in the first position, until you put a shift kit in that modifies the valve body to prevent this.

 

Any suggestions on which one? Don't want one that rattles your teeth when it shifts--

 

if you have a BTO cam set up on the accelerator linkage it will allow you to slightly alter shift points by slightly changing the TV length

 

I have the BTO universal tv adjustment system. Seems to work OK--using Holley carb was a PITB to get it where it is. Guess shift kit maybe the only answer????----don't know which one to use.

 

i am talking about the cam that is on the accelerator linkage on carb shaft.....not the adjustment on the bracket where the accelerator cable is also mounted

 

The mechanical Governor determines the WOT shift point RPM

 

If that controls it then why would it jumpt to 2nd so quickly under WOT? It makes no difference now shifts quick out of first no matter what I do?

 

That is the way they are, there is almost nothing to be done that I know of....and I fought my 700 for some time over that issue....<400 hp on a 355 roller engine, 355 gears in a '72 shark.....it was built using a Superior/Fairbanks shift kit....not worth a damn IMO....

I have a 700 with a TRANS GO shift kit in it, BUT every tranny I have built including the 700 in the camper with a TG kit works fine.....

but in a vette, I can't tell you want to expect....all I remember is my 700 upshifted before I cleared an intersection....no matter what....not only that it would downshift to 3rd gear at WOT, no matter what....

the 200 4r I replaced it with in the vette, works far more normally....

same engine and gearset....

 

The gov has springs and weights. If it is set for 3500 rpm it with auto shift at 3500. You can buy what ever rpm you want. They used to be about $75 bucks.

Get an exploded view of the 700R4. it is under the side cap

 

Actually, it's kind of a good thing. 700's are not real happy with a hard 1-2 shift at high RPM. It can be done with some parts, but the low (3.08) first gear, couples with nearly a 2:1 ratio thru the convertor it ends up really close to a 6.12 low gear. Add your rear gears to that, and you can see why.

Adjusting the TV cable a couple of clicks either way will make the shift a little softer or harder, but much more than that and the line pressures get all funny and you risk slipping clutches and overheating the trans. Best way to adjust it is with a pressure gauge on the line tap, but GM's service manual method works too.

If you add a shift kit, I've used Trans-Go and Superior both and had good results. Be sure and add the TV boost valve, HD Corvette servo and follow the instructions in the kit carefully.
If you go into the trans, there are a few more things- 10 or 13 vane pump and hard rings, drop the spacers out of the clutch pack and add more clutch/steel plates, eliminate the cushion (wave) plates, late model rear planetary set. That can run into some decent size cash pretty fast too. And really, the parts are not terribly expensive.

v2racing is correct- a 700 will come out of 1st gear all by itself even when manual low is selected.

 

I should have added that after you modify the valve body with a shift kit to prevent the up shift when in first, the governor will then be the controller of what rpm the tranny shifts at in full rpm, just as George (Gkull) is saying.

I have George's old Art Carr 700R4. It does not up shift on it's own in first, shifts very hard to second and will stay in OD at full throttle (the speed is way, way to high for my 255/60/15 tires though). I had to do a bit of work with the governor to get it to shift at the rpm points I wanted at part throttle regular driving and wide open throttle. My gearing and motor were different than Georges.

 

Setting the TV cable with a pressure gauge is the best way set the part throttle shift points and how hard a tranny shifts.

 

True, but being lazy, I set them snug as possible and still get a full WOT opening on the induction.....

never had a issue doing that....and I have tried as much as 2-3 notches one way or another, finding the compromise position as above to be about right for everyday driving.....

this seemed true for both the 700 and the 200 4r .....

 

I like to set the TV cable a little aggressive with the BTO adjustable linkage kit. It starts out with higher line pressure that way. You can then set the part throttle shift points with the springs on the governor. The spring will affect the wide open shift points some so you then have to play with the weights after you get the part throttles where you want them.

Set the TV cable for pressure first. Governor springs second for part throttle shift points (normal full auto driving), weights third for wide open auto shift points.

 

There's a Corvette TV Boost valve you can get too. Comes in some of the shift kits (not all) so be sure and look for that one. That valve (stock) is what causes no 4th at WOT.

 

I used the BTO kit had it first on a Qjet then went with a Holley 4175 spreadbore and used the linkage on it. Did not use pressure as means of setting it. Pulled pan and set it by looking at the valve position at idle and WOT. Like I said it shifts good--stock set up internaly. Actually shifts very smooth doesn't slip shift just factory smooth. Made me think a shift kit might be better in the long run. I'm not a a/t person when it comes to springs and weights. Would need help in doing those. Don't know if Transgo has the tv valve--can get transgo kit easily and could put that in but if it needed add'l adjustments weights/springs I'd be looking for help.

 

All the shift kits I've seen require the valve body to come off. The spacer plate (or separator plate if you prefer) has to have some holes drilled to a larger size. The TV boost valve can be changed without dropping the VB, but the servo, you'll need to lower the rear of the trans.

 

what I sold to v2racing was the highest end 700R4 from Art Carr racing when they used to be located near my house in Reno Nevada. It was rated at 800 hp. With bigger pump, bigger lines................ because I originally bought BS tranny from TCI or B&M from Jeg's. My little 355 ci ripped what was advertised as Big block torque handling avertised in just a few days. It all goes to say what you pay for is what you get!

v2racing has a pretty radical 406 motor and his high mechanical nohow to mod heads, motor, trannys to fit his needs.

The whole thing about 700's and 200's is a learning curve. I used them for nearly 20 years. The higher end 9.5 inch TC's are a must