'70 WS wipers
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: livonia mi
'70 WS wipers
Ok---I put a long style L88 hood on my '70. Windshield wipers were working before I took off the WS wiper door and grill. Plugged the vacuum lines and put a jumper wire where the WS wiper override switch (under sterring column) was. Wipers do not work. Any ideas?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,447
Likes: 3
From: Syracuse NY
I may be mistaken but I don't think you should have the over-ride switch jumped, just the limit switch as I mentioned in your other thread.
The over-ride switch is designed to stop the wiper motor so that you can change the blades. Jumping it is sure to cause the wiper motor not to work.
The over-ride switch is designed to stop the wiper motor so that you can change the blades. Jumping it is sure to cause the wiper motor not to work.
Last edited by DZRick; Sep 3, 2010 at 02:43 PM.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: livonia mi
I may be mistaken but I don't think you should have the over-ride switch jumped, just the limit switch as I mentioned in your other thread.
The over-ride switch is designed to stop the wiper motor so that you can change the blades. Jumping it is sure to cause the wiper motor not to work.
The over-ride switch is designed to stop the wiper motor so that you can change the blades. Jumping it is sure to cause the wiper motor not to work.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,447
Likes: 3
From: Syracuse NY
The limit switch should only have two wires.
Here is a picture from my '68, my index finger is pointing to the limit switch and you can see the connector from the switch.
.
The connector ( T shaped 2 wire ) you need to jumper is the one on the left that plugs into to limit switch, it comes out of the taped harness in the background and one of the wires loop into the 3 prong connector on the right.
Here is a picture from my '68, my index finger is pointing to the limit switch and you can see the connector from the switch.
.
The connector ( T shaped 2 wire ) you need to jumper is the one on the left that plugs into to limit switch, it comes out of the taped harness in the background and one of the wires loop into the 3 prong connector on the right.
Last edited by DZRick; Sep 3, 2010 at 03:06 PM.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: livonia mi
The limit switch should only have two wires.
Here is a picture from my '68, my index finger is pointing to the limit switch and you can see the connector from the switch.
.
The connector ( T shaped 2 wire ) you need to jumper is the one on the left that plugs into to limit switch, it comes out of the taped harness in the background and one of the wires loop into the 3 prong connector on the right.
Here is a picture from my '68, my index finger is pointing to the limit switch and you can see the connector from the switch.
.
The connector ( T shaped 2 wire ) you need to jumper is the one on the left that plugs into to limit switch, it comes out of the taped harness in the background and one of the wires loop into the 3 prong connector on the right.
Joe
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Joe-
If you bypass the over-ride switch under the dash you won't be able to interrupt the motor for blade service.
On your car the T connector is the same as Ricks picture but you won't have the three wire connector (68 is different) you'll have a single connector on a red wire. So just make sure you have power in that red wire going in the back side of the motor. You'll find a simple schematic on this PDF.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...elp.php?hID=95
If you bypass the over-ride switch under the dash you won't be able to interrupt the motor for blade service.
On your car the T connector is the same as Ricks picture but you won't have the three wire connector (68 is different) you'll have a single connector on a red wire. So just make sure you have power in that red wire going in the back side of the motor. You'll find a simple schematic on this PDF.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...elp.php?hID=95
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: livonia mi
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,247
Likes: 210
From: Detroit MI
The other weird thing is that the motor doesn't have a terminal for the ground wire like yours.
And once I do get the (a) motor working, I'm not sure that the wiper linkage is going to clear the lower edge of the windshield. Time to come over and look at your car again (second time today).
Last edited by 69autoXr; Sep 6, 2010 at 07:00 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
69..
If you think the motor is bad, remove all the wires from the wiper motor.. raise the wiper door and put some water on the windshield.
Then run you some extra wires and do the bench test on the car.. Here is how..
If the motor runs, then it's in the car! If the motor fails you know where to start!
Willcox
If you think the motor is bad, remove all the wires from the wiper motor.. raise the wiper door and put some water on the windshield.
Then run you some extra wires and do the bench test on the car.. Here is how..
If the motor runs, then it's in the car! If the motor fails you know where to start!
Willcox
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,247
Likes: 210
From: Detroit MI
69..
If you think the motor is bad, remove all the wires from the wiper motor.. raise the wiper door and put some water on the windshield.
Then run you some extra wires and do the bench test on the car.. Here is how..
If the motor runs, then it's in the car! If the motor fails you know where to start!
Willcox
If you think the motor is bad, remove all the wires from the wiper motor.. raise the wiper door and put some water on the windshield.
Then run you some extra wires and do the bench test on the car.. Here is how..
If the motor runs, then it's in the car! If the motor fails you know where to start!
Willcox
edit: I did a little more testing and it seems that the motor works, but the terminals on the motor have an intermittent connection. When I jiggled the terminals a bit the #3 ground would arc a bit and the motor would run.
Last edited by 69autoXr; Sep 6, 2010 at 11:10 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 76,656
Likes: 1,853
From: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
That's not a real hard fix.. depending on whats loose... If the wire is loose a drop of solder might do the trick... but if the terminal is loose in the holder.. then you do have an issue.
As you can see from the picture below, the terminal is held in place with rivet in the plastic holder! You might just have a problem with one of the wires soldered on and soldering can be a challenge! If you get the terminal to hot you'll melt the plastic around the rivet.
If the wires get hot, the rivet can melt in the plastic and make the terminal move but they usually still make enough contact to run properly. Are you sure the problem is not in the female part of the connector?
As you can see from the picture below, the terminal is held in place with rivet in the plastic holder! You might just have a problem with one of the wires soldered on and soldering can be a challenge! If you get the terminal to hot you'll melt the plastic around the rivet.
If the wires get hot, the rivet can melt in the plastic and make the terminal move but they usually still make enough contact to run properly. Are you sure the problem is not in the female part of the connector?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,247
Likes: 210
From: Detroit MI
This was with the female connector disconnected, using jumper wires from 12V and ground directly to #2 and #3 terminals on the motor as in your diagnostic. Jiggling the #3 terminal would cause the motor to start and stop, with a small arc to the ground strap running to the motor mounting hole.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 359
Likes: 0
From: Shoemakersville Pa
That's not a real hard fix.. depending on whats loose... If the wire is loose a drop of solder might do the trick... but if the terminal is loose in the holder.. then you do have an issue.
As you can see from the picture below, the terminal is held in place with rivet in the plastic holder! You might just have a problem with one of the wires soldered on and soldering can be a challenge! If you get the terminal to hot you'll melt the plastic around the rivet.
If the wires get hot, the rivet can melt in the plastic and make the terminal move but they usually still make enough contact to run properly. Are you sure the problem is not in the female part of the connector?
As you can see from the picture below, the terminal is held in place with rivet in the plastic holder! You might just have a problem with one of the wires soldered on and soldering can be a challenge! If you get the terminal to hot you'll melt the plastic around the rivet.
If the wires get hot, the rivet can melt in the plastic and make the terminal move but they usually still make enough contact to run properly. Are you sure the problem is not in the female part of the connector?