Differential leaking at Yokes
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Differential leaking at Yokes
Recently I noticed drip spots on my cardboard under the car right under the diff. I replaced fluid since it's been around 7 years. So I cleaned up everything and could see it appears to be just seeping out the yoke entry points. Couple drops a day.
Not sure what to do. I know I probably need a whole rebuild since I havent done anything in 8 years and my yokes do have some play.
But should anything really leak out from there? Is there an obvious seal for the yokes that I could have broken. The weird thing is it's out both yokes at the same time.
Not sure what to do. I know I probably need a whole rebuild since I havent done anything in 8 years and my yokes do have some play.
But should anything really leak out from there? Is there an obvious seal for the yokes that I could have broken. The weird thing is it's out both yokes at the same time.
#5
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2006
Location: Airdrie Alberta
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probably just hardened from age..
Time to pull the diff for service as you can't change the seals without pulling it. while its out it may be time to refresh it with bearings, seals etc
Time to pull the diff for service as you can't change the seals without pulling it. while its out it may be time to refresh it with bearings, seals etc
#6
Race Director
Bearings should only be replaced if they really need it, I'm still on original bearings. However, when it's apart you want to check the posi clutches. Even if they don't need replacing, you want to shim the clutch packs so the spiders are at about 0.001" (barely noticeable play). Nothing more embarrassing than a one-wheel burnout!
#7
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
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My vette was a one wheel wonder until differential rebuild time.
Bearings should only be replaced if they really need it, I'm still on original bearings. However, when it's apart you want to check the posi clutches. Even if they don't need replacing, you want to shim the clutch packs so the spiders are at about 0.001" (barely noticeable play). Nothing more embarrassing than a one-wheel burnout!
Becareful, easy to get the while i'm at it illness here. U just want to get the seals replaced and the differential inspected. Of course repack the the U-joints. But unless the rear spring and trailing arms are broke save your $$$ until they are bad - u can repair those separatly at anytime. Easy to bust $1000 on the differential alone - it pays to shop around. Use a driveline specialty shop and you'll be happier.
Getting the spring out and off is a mess but i was able to manhandle the diff pumkin myself and take in to the shop for overhaul.
Good luck,
cardo0
#8
Race Director
I agree you can open an expensive can of worms. I have replaced a bunch of side yoke seals only. You can partially drop the rear end not removing the driveshaft or strut rod mount and replace the seals , not too bad of a job.
Or you can bite the bullet and go for the full overhaul if you feel the rear end can use it and your wallet can stand it.
Or you can bite the bullet and go for the full overhaul if you feel the rear end can use it and your wallet can stand it.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Looks like I need to replace yokes and seal. Hopefully gears and bearings are in good shape. Maybe I just swap for a rebuild but I wish the yokes would come with it. Nobody gives the yokes on a diff rebuild.
Thanks, more fun ahead as always.....
Thanks, more fun ahead as always.....