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Yes they will work. You can cut to fit if you want to shorten them. I would run a 7/16-20 nut past where you want to cut. Afte the cut is made, back the nut off and it will help clean the thread of burs.
Yes they will work. You can cut to fit if you want to shorten them. I would run a 7/16-20 nut past where you want to cut. Afte the cut is made, back the nut off and it will help clean the thread of burs.
I'm going to leave them as they are, just to see how it'll look. You guys have been a lot of help. Thank you all very much.
Then you gotta pull them through with a nut. This takes some ***** out brute powa. Those knurls are just a **** hair wider than stock ones. So, when I tell you you gotta heave with a breaker bar, trust me. Plus, add some high strength locktite to the base of them, so they don't spin on down the road when trying to remove a lug nut. THAT would suck. Fronts are pretty straight forward, and is a good time to replace the bearings, and repack with grease. Again, not very tough. The "pro" way to pack is by getting some on your hand, and then dragging the bearing over in till it's totally packed.
You DON'T have to remove the rear trailing arms to get these suckers in, but it's a bit of work.
First, since they are so long, you have to drill your dust shield to make a spot for them to come in at from behind.
Great idea Kevin. I don't think I would have ever thought of that, especially the locktite on the base of the stud. Looks like I'll be going back to the part store to get the other two sets.
What local parts stores are you guys buying these at? I have a rear stud on my 71 spinning and spinning unable to tighten it. I need to figure out what studs I need, get it, and get it done.. Been riding around with 4/5 studs holding the rear wheel on