ok, i got the spring off (thanks everyone for your help)--i've got 5 of the bolts out of the rear cover.--bolt located at one-o'clock is froze, but i'm determined enough to get it--question is, "how do i get the top 2 bolts out?--and then, once i have these out, the whole rear crossmember should drop down-right?--(i have the 2 bolts outta the crossmember already, and have that supported with jack.--is there anything i am forgetting?-the halfshafts dont need to come off also, do they? thanks so much for your help!! :rolleyes: :smash: :seeya

 

erika,
You are forgetting the BIG crowbar to pry the cross member out of it`s perch. Or as I would do, take the easy out and peel back the carpet,cut a hole in the floor and easily get to the 4 top bolts that hold the rear end to the
(nasty to remove) cross member. But then thats just me!! ...redvetracr

 

Hold on!! Are you just trying to remove only the rear cover? II think you may have confused 2 method here. If you want to drop the entire differential, then the method is:

Method 1: Remove rear spring, strut rods, and halfshafts must be either taken out completely or disconnected at the trailing arms. Also, the drive shaft must be disconnected and the front mount bolt on the differential must be removed. Then you can drop the whole thing with the crossmember which may need some firm coaxing to loosen. This unit is HEAVY and you will probably need help to steady it even if you use a floor jack to lower it (don't mean to sound chauvinist but it is true.)

Method 2: Now, another method of removing the differential is to leave the rear cover bolted to the crossmember and remove the front section of the differential leaving the cover bolted to the crossmember and the crossmember in the car. In this case you will still have to remove everything I just mentioned in method 1 except the crossmember and the rear cover will stay in the car. I cannot imagine doing it this way myself. You will have the rear end gears staring you right in the face (might damage something) and oil everywhere. I would suggest that method 1 is preferred and actually far easier.

Which of these 2 are you trying to accomplish? Or am I the one who is confused? :confused:

 

hi--no, i just want to change the rear cover--cracked on the spring block (or whatever you call that!) i have the rear spring off, changing that also, and rear shocks.

 

Ok sorry about the confusion. Those bolts on top are recessed into the crossmember and are going to be very difficult to get to without really good tools and some luck. Then theoretically you can drop the crossmember and rear cover as a unit. I would be really careful of the rear gears when you do so. Are you sure you don't want to just drop the whole thing?

 

Somehow I was able to remove those 2 top bolts, but I don't remember exactly how. I think it was by using a long extension so that I could turn them from behind the crossmember. Or was it with an open wrench? :confused:

After you remove those, you'll have the option of removing the crossmember + cover as a unit (as redvetracer said, it'll take some "persuasion" to remove the crossmember), or you can also leave the crossmember alone, and remove the four bolts that hold the cover to the crossmember. To get to those bolts you'll need a deep well socket or a spark plug socket or a very short extension, and you'll wrench them from behind the crossmember.

-Pedro


[Modified by Pedro'74, 11:41 PM 3/30/2002]

 

Erika... Go to http://www.NCRS.org and search their archives on rear spring installation or you stand a good chance of breaking the new cover. The spring MUST be de-arched BEFORE you torque the four bolts. That is how the cover's usually get broken. There are several in depth threads about how to do this. One guy has a picture of TWO broken ears on a new cover he was attempting to install. :smash:

 

I had a similar problem. I was able to reach the 2 top cover bolts from a 90 degreee angle using a box or open end wrench when I removed mine. I accessed it by reaching in over the top of the disk brake area and was able to break them loose enough to hand remove them . I have a long reach & that helped. I hope yours aren't frozen other wise you may have to go the route of the hole cut in the floor. I tried not do do that. The crossmember removal was the real bear and it required all of my strength with the help of a 6 foot pipe that has a chisel end banged into it (deeply) in order to create a lip to catch the edges. After a few good pushes it broke loose and fell down about 6 inches. the other side also needed similar persuassion.
Keep at it, don't quit ,it will come .
From what you posted it sounds like you have your jackstands under the crossmember. Don't keep them there as you need to have it free to drop down. I hope the car is supported on the frame rails at this point. You realize that the crossmember is bolted to the cover also ,which are not accessible unless removed with the cover attached. :smash:

 

I would reconsider dropping just the cover as the others have said. I just did this job,started on Friday and had everything from the tranny yoke back out,except the gas tank. Even had to torch/sawzall out the T arm bolts.

The complete differential/brackets weights 100 lbs. If I understand you correctly you just want to pull the cover and replace it. I have some manuals that say to do this too, but the author isn't under there with you either. It will be awkward trying to do this and dangerous. You will br better off taking the cross member/differential down as a unit repairing/painting and reinstalling. I did it on a rusted car with just a 3' crow bar from Home Depot. You'll have to build a wooded support for your floor jack and place it under the rear and then loosen the 2 crossmember bolts but don't take them out. Then use the bar to pop the corssmember loose on to the bolts. Remove the bolts when it's resting on the wood support and slowly lower the whole thing.
Good luck
Gary

 

Ditto what gtr1999 said. Consider taking the whole unit out. The only additional work you are talking about is disconnecting the halfshafts, unbolting the front of the diff. and disconnecting the driveshaft. (You don't even have to take the driveshaft out of the car. Just jam a wedge of wood in between the shaft and the crossmember to keep it near where it is now and it is easy to realign and attach later.) Pulling the whole unit will be a lot less awkward and it will give you a chance to change u-joints in the halfshaft and change the front carrier cushion- cheap fixes. :cheers:

 

I went to the NCRS site but I couldn't find anything on rear spring installation.. I'm planning on ordering my new spring.. well.. I was going to do it Monday. My spring has 3 bolts in the center and then one on each end.. What 4 bolts are you talking about? Can you post any links to more information.. From the tech tips.. it didn't sound difficult at all..
What is dearched?


[Modified by Koz, 10:17 PM 3/31/2002]

 

KOZ... Go to the archives on the ncrs board. (somewhere in the middle of the list of archives) There are lots of posts about spring installation. I use two floor jacks, (one on each end) and jack it as flat as possible and the I do not tighten the bolts fully until the weight is on the suspension. I think 79 and back is configured a little different than yours.


[Modified by silvervetteman, 4:39 AM 4/1/2002]