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Preface:
This is a 1968 car without power steering. I'll note this is also this way it was when I took it apart. Nothing changed because of my rebuild. I drove it like this for years in fact.
The Issue:
I put my front end back together. Eack tie rod measures 14 & 15/16 as measured from "center to center" on the tie rod ends. ("center" being the center of the grease fitting). This is also the way it was when I took it apart. I have about 1" of thread showing on each tie-rod end
Toe in is pretty much spot-on.
But take a look at where my steering wheel is at "straight ahead" - It was like this before too.
My question is: Should I assume that the alignment shop can fix this - or should I assume that since both tie rods are symetrical at this point in time, that the steering wheel needs to come off and move over a couple notches to do it right?
I'm honestly not sure there's enough thread on the tie rods to shift it that far and still have some adjustment left? If you have a manual steering car - are your tie rods pretty much the same length?
I'm looking for some thoughts from those of you who have done this before please.
Click on Pic to enlarge.
Last edited by Clams Canino; Sep 25, 2010 at 02:27 PM.
I wouldn't try to adjust the steering wheel that much with tie-rods. Move the steering wheel to where it is close to straight. The alignment shop can then align it straight when you have the front end aligned.
The first thing I would ask is this: Do your turn signals cancel equally right to left? If they cancel equally then your cancelling cam and steering wheel hub are indexed correctly. You may be able to fix your problem by removing the six screws that attach the steering wheel to the hub. With six screws, each increment would be 60 degrees. Your steering wheel looks like it might be off by 60 degrees. Indexing it one set of screw holes might fix it.
The cancelling cam and the steering wheel hub are indexed together. (The plastic horn that is part of the cancelling cam only fits through the hub in one location.) If the turn signals do not cancel equally, then it means that the hub and cancelling cam are not indexed on the steering column shaft correctly. You need to use a steering wheel hub puller and remove the hub from the steering column shaft. There should be an indentation mark on the very end of the steering shaft. That indentation should be a 12 o'clock when the car travels straight down the road. There should be a similar indentation on the steering wheel hub. Align the two indentations and you should be good to go.
Hi Jim!
Thanks for the help. Please stay with me a bit while I muddle through this.
From the position depicted above the cams are way off.
However....
If I start with the steering wheel at 12:00 - the cams trip at about 9:00 and 2:30(not quite 9 and 3). This would lead me to believe that the wheel hub is indeed on the shaft correctly or at most one spline off in the CCW direction.
How much to I have to take apart in order to to check that the indentations are indeed aligned??
From what you describe you will need to pull the hub and index it clockwise two splines on the steering column shaft. (There are something like 30 splines on the steering shaft so moving two splines clockwise will rotate the steering wheel hub 24 degrees.)
You will need to remove the horn button, remove the three screws and the horn contact assembly, remove the six screws and the steering wheel from the hub. Remove the steering wheel nut and washer. Use a puller to remove the hub from the steering column shaft.
You will be able to see the index mark on the end of the steering shaft when you remove the horn button. The index mark on the hub will be covered by nut that holds the hub onto the steering shaft.
Jim