Hello to all. My name is claude and i have recently aquired a lovely ve a 1971 standard 350, automatic with standard steering coulumn vette.
It is now at a new home here in Melbourne Australia.

I am new to this forum and wish to thank everyone involved in its existence and usefullness to those in need. In this case me.

I am hoping someone out there may be able to assist in my recent dilema.

I recently jacked up my vehicle (front wheels off the ground) and cleaned the underbody of the vehicle.
During the cleaning process, i manually moved the front wheels from full lock to left and then full lock to right, so as I could clean the wishbones, and wheel tubs. I manually pivoted the wheels perhaps 6-10 times during the cleaning process.
During this time of pivoting- naturally the steering wheel was also moving accordingly. However I never had the keys in the ignition cylinder lock when i did this.
My first question is when I had the front wheels off the ground, would it be possible to turn the wheels by hand manually without the keys in the ignition cylinder?
See the problem I have now, is that after i had finished cleaning the undercarriage of the car, I lowered it off the jack, then procedded to try start the car.
When i opened the car door, i noticed that the door buzzer didnt sound and that the interior light didnt go in! I then procedded to put the key in the ignition. Turned the key but there was absouletly nothing. Ie no power no where. No power on acessories, no power no where!
Turned the light switch on but no power there either.

So i proceeded in checking the battery- good
Proceeded in checking all earths- good. I think?
Check all wires to solenoid/starter motor- good. I think?

I was then convinced that whilst I was manually turning the front vehicle wheels- that i must of damaged something in the ignition lock cylinder.
The cylinder lock did look like it was a little bit looser than it was previously and wasnt turning like it use to . ie didnt really hear any clicks as i turned the key around- it was a loose smooth turn!

Would a faulty/damaged lock cylinder be the cause of having no power in this case?
Would of my constant rotating from full lock left to full lock right damaged the lock cylinder?

I have since commenced and pulled out the cylinder lock. I have been advised that its broken and needs replacing.

I have ordered a new lock but in the meantime- i am trying to locate the fault/reason why there is no power going to lights/interior?

Should i wait and put the new lock in before attempting to find the power failure source?

I honestly dont know where to start. The car started perfectly before and now dead.

Does any one know what fuse or problem would occur for having no power to lights/interior? I f i locate this- i am pretty sure once i put the new cylinder in- that i will have power again to everything powered by the ignition lock?

Would burnt out fuseable links near the solenoid -prevent power to lights/interior?

Whatever it is it has killed all power to everything.

I am hoping dearly someone can put me on the right track here.

claude

 

Turning the steering wheel would have nothing to do with the main power. You have disconnected or burned the fusible link at the starter.

 

Hi wombvette.
Well i can actually see this forum works fast. Thanks for your response.

This fusible link at the starter???????????If burnt................would that prevent power going to the interior light and lights?

Any suggestions on the correct way of repairing this burnt fusible link?
Its 12 midnight here in Melbourne, Australia......................and i am definately going to have a look at this fusible link tommorow some time.

When you say disconnected................is this link like a fuse?????? What holds it together?
Sorry for this stupid question................but I actually never heard of a fusible link..............

thanks wombvette

 

A fusible link is, in effect a fuse. It looks like a normal wire from the outside but the actual wire is a smaller diameter (gauge) than it looks. The smaller cross section can't carry the current and it burns just as a fuse does, except you can't see it's damaged. On your 1971, the fusible links (2 of them) are close to the starter.

Looking at your starter connections, there are 3 terminals- the largest one is the battery cable connection- it also has 2 other wires attached- those 2 are the fusible links. Closest to the block, is a 10 gauge wire- that one is the "start" terminal. Outboard small terminal is to the ignition coil- supplies full 12 volts to the coil for starting.

 

If you need a schematic you can get yours here:
http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/?c=d;o=d

Here's what a fusible link looks like. Test both sides for 12 volts or give a good pull on each side if it comes apart it's bad.


For the wheels not locking you might want to see if the shifter cable is connected.

 

dosen't a 71 also have a fusable link into main harness at horn relay? check there also will be a 6 inch long wire into round rubber connector to horn relay. Jim

 

thakyou kindly TIMAT AND THANKYOU PETE AND YOU TOO JBRIGHT.

I will digest all the information you have all gave me.

Pete! Does that diagram of the transmission linkage relate to a 1971?


I amgoing to inspect this fusible link in the next few days and get back to you all.
If it is in fact gone...................i m ost definately will require instructions on how to fix it.
ie correct parts to reconnect this properly...................
and correct method...................

 

If there are no electrical power than you must turning the steering wheel. And be sure that no change any settings in main power. You must disconnect the fusible link of starter.

 

jilly......hi..................im a bit confused on what you said................can you please explain kindly.

 

ok people Im back.
Updates: Its quite embarrasing,

1. I presumed the battery was good..............as it was 7 days old.
2. So i rechecked the battery................................. ..dead. I presume that perhaps i left a door open and it totally drained the battery.
3. replaced the battery.
4. installed the original lock cylinder................(it still looks as if it needs to be replaced)
5. Did not affix the steering wheel at this point.
6. Car started without a problem.
7. Who said aussies had brains????????? not me.
8. Anyway........next day..............went to start it again.......................this time.........I had the lights on the dash come up.............indicators all worked.............brake lights work....................but when i turn ignition lock to run.......................nothing....... .......
9. The lights do not pop up or go on.
10. the wipers dont go on............
I am presuming that the ignition cylinder (not ignition switch) is in fact gone and needs to be replaced?
Not sure if the horn relay is the culprit???? But the key buzzer works.
Something somewhere..............that is linked to wipers and lights is the culprit.............
Is it the ignition barrel??????
Or could it be the ignition switch???????

i honestly dont know. I have just realised that the 71 wiring diagram in the manual is apparently incorrect??????????? So i need to source 71 wiring -correct one........
any suggestions............where i could buy 1 from???

once again any help would be much appreciated before i go mad!!!!!!!!

thanks
claude from downunder

 

Here is another look at a fusible link.

 

hi roger. well the saga continues............
Updates are as follows.

I tested the starter motor whilst on the car. 12 volts at bat terminal on solonoid.......zero volts at purple (ignition wire) at s terminal on solonoid.........when key turned to start/run.

Tested purple wire also before the fusible link connection and there is no power there either.
Seems like the ignition wire (purple has no power)??????

Tested the starter motor off the car............works fine............

Reverse back up lights go on..........so I presume the nuetral safety switch is ok???

Which leaves me to think its the ignition switch???????

Oh..........lights do go on...........but they do not pop up!!!

The purple wire is the culprit..i think.????????

I am trying to trace its path back to the ignition switch..................but am unsure where it goes.........

Do you know if it goes to any relays first then to the neutral safety switch then to the ignition switch???????? I have a few wiring diagrams for the 1971 but they all differ in some way????????????

getting very frustrated now..................almost time to call in an auto elect- defeat is near.
thanks
very frustrated aussie

 

Well to everyone who helped me to date..........a big thankyou

It seems, that the problem I had was as foolows:

1. took off sartor motor- bench tested- worked perfectly.
however upon inspection some of the screw terminals (on solonoid where a bit loose) tightened these up and put sarter back in car.

2. The purple (ignition wire to S terminal didnt look like it had a perfect connector- cut it and connected a new connector.

3. the earth for the starter - via the earth rod on the starter it goes through a mounting bracket and heat sheild..........and a nut attaches to it. The bracket to the engine block looked dirty and very very slightly loose. Removed -cleaned- re affixed.

4. Car started immediately.

5. What I have learnt is that if an earth wire or other wire connection looks good- still remove it- clean it -and tighten it. Properly. Then and only then go to the next stage of elimination.

I took the long road on this one- because I PRESUMMED! never presume with electrics.

thanks to all of you who have helped.

god bless americans and corvettes